Batteries
July 14, 2014
updated 2022-01
A 12V sealed battery with an acid 6-pack.
Lead-Acid batteries: These batteries are sold dry and sealed, for freshness and maximum strength. Battery acid must be added before use. It is included with the battery, unless stated otherwise. Read the instructions with each battery. Wear eye and skin protection. Use baking soda to neutralize spills.
Battery Charging: All lead acid batteries need to be kept charged, at least every 2-3 months, or they will become weaker and weaker with age. After 2 years of sitting they are less than 25% of their original strength. That’s why these batteries are sold dry. For a lead acid battery, life begins at the moment the electrolyte (dilute sulfuric acid) is added.
Volts, Amps and Hours: The last number means the amp-hours. A 6N2 will deliver 2 amps for 1 hour (or 1 amp for 2 hours). A 6N4 will deliver 4 amps for 1 hour (or 1 amp for 4 hours). Bigger batteries produce more amp-hours.
Battery Charts
6V Batteries Conventional
12V Batteries Conventional
12V Batteries Yumicron p1
12V Batteries Yumicron p2
12V Batteries Sealed Type
6 Volt Battery List (US models)
App colors: small motorcycles, scooters, mopeds
Sources: Yuasa battery charts, moped parts catalogs
green or green means normally in stock
n.a. or none means not available
Cateye 5-pack of vintage-size C-cell NiCads 5.5V n.a.
These turn signal kits were a popular accessory on 70’s mopeds.
But there was not any extra electricity so they were not too bright.
All of the NOS batteries, made in 1980, have become weak or dead.
Modern C-cell NiCad batteries are wider, and do not fit in the box.
They can be soldered in series, and mounted on top, or elsewhere.
Here is a link to some freshly made ones: batteryspace.com
6N2 Flat shape 2 3/4″ wide, 3 3/4″ tall, 1 3/4″ deep
battery acid for 6N2 size $8 150cc (6 oz)
6N2-2A dry, with acid pack $27.0
wires: male bullet, fuse + male bullet
Honda 50cc 1959-62 C100 Super Cub, C110 Super Sports Cub (top tank)
not 60-62 C102 Super Cub, 62-69 CA102 Honda 50 (both elec start)
Honda 50cc 1962-69 CA110 Sport 50 (top tank)
Honda 55cc 1962-63 C105T Trail 55, 63-65 CA105T Trail 55
Honda 65cc 1965-69 S65 (CS65) Sport 65,
Angel 1977-79 AP48, BP48, Speed Bird BP48, BP48S
6N2-2A-L1 dry, with acid pack $32.0
wires: male bullet, fuse+dual fem.bullet+male bullet
(some) Lazer 1977 Sport 50 (top tank with Minarelli V1)
6N2-2A-L2 dry, with acid pack $32.0
wires: male bullet, fuse+dual fem.bullet+male blade
(most) Lazer 1977 Sport 50 (top tank with Minarelli V1)
xxxxxxxxxx 6N2-2A-I1 dry, with acid pack $32.0
xxxxxxxxxx wires: 6mm eyelet, fuse+dual fem.bullet+female bullet
(some) Indian AMI-50 Chief 1978 (early)
6N2-2A-I2 dry, with acid pack $32.0
wires: female bullet, fuse+dual fem.bullet+fem bullet
(most) Indian AMI-50 Chief 1978-81
xxxxxxxxxx 6N2-2A-1 dry, with acid pack $27.0
xxxxxxxxxx wires: fuse + male bullet, male bullet
xxxxxxxxxx 6N2-2A-2 dry, with acid pack $27.0
xxxxxxxxxx wires: female bullet, male bullet
6N2-2A-3 dry, with acid pack $27.0
wires: 6mm eyelet ground, female bullet
Kawasaki 1970-72 G4TR Series (100cc), 70-71 F5 (350cc)
Kawasaki 1971-72 F8 (250cc), 72 F9 (350cc)
Yamaha 1970-71 HT1, HT1B 90 Enduro, 72 JT2 Mini Enduro (60cc)
Yamaha 1969-70 CT1, CT1B, CT1C 175 Enduro
Yamaha 1968-71 DT1, DT1B, DT1C, DT1E, 250 Enduro
Yamaha 1970-71 RT1, RT1B 360 Enduro
6N2-2A-4 dry, with acid pack $27.0
wires: female bullet, female bullet
Suzuki 1980-81 FA50 Shuttle
Suzuki 62-68 M30 Suzi (50cc), M31 Suzi (55cc)
Suzuki 1973-77 GT185, 71-72 TC90J,R,
Suzuki 1972 RV90 Rover, 69-72 TS250 Savage
xxxxxxxxxx 6N2-2A-6 dry, with acid pack $27.0 same as 6N2-2A-2
xxxxxxxxxx wires: female bullet, male bullet
6N2-2A-8 dry, with acid pack $27.0
wires: male bullet, fuse + female bullet
Honda 1978-79 NC50 Express
6N2A Tall shape 2 3/4″ wide, 4 1/8″ tall, 1 3/4″ deep
battery acid for 6N2A size $8 175cc (7 oz)
6N2A-2C-1 dry, without acid $22
2-prong plug: male blade, fuse + male blade
B60-6 superseded to 6N2A-2C-1
Honda 1969-70 Z50A Mini Trail
6N2A-2C-3 dry, with acid pack none
4-prong plug: male blade, fuse + male blade
(2 of the 4 prongs are for an ignition “kill” jumper)
(unplug the battery and the engine stops running)
Honda 1977 NC50 Express
Honda 1971-73 SL70, 72-73 CT70
6N4 Square Shape 2 3/4″ wide, 3 5/8″ tall, 2 3/4″ deep
battery acid for 6N4 size $8 240cc (8 oz)
6N4-2A dry, with acid pack $30.0
wires: female bullet, female bullet
Suzuki 50cc 1964 M12 Sports 50, 66 M15, 67 M12 Cavalier, 69 AS50 Maverick
Suzuki 50cc 1970 AC50 Maverick, 71 TS50 Hustler, 71 AC50 Scrambler
Suzuki 50cc 1974 TS50 Gaucho, 71 F50, F50R Cutlass, 79-83 FS50, FZ50 Rascal
Suzuki 75cc 1975-77 TS75, 80cc 64-65 K10, 65 K10D, 64-65 K11 Sports 80
Suzuki 100cc 1966 & 73-78 A100 Go-fer, 69 AC100, 73-77 TC100, TS100
Suzuki 120cc 1965 B100, 66-67 B120, 67 B105P, B100P
Suzuki 125cc 1973-76 RV125, 86-88 SP125, 185cc 1971-76 TS185 Sierra
xxxxxxxxxx 6N4-2A-3 dry, with acid pack $30.0
xxxxxxxxxx wires: female bullet, male bullet
Kawasaki 90cc 1969-72 G3SS (up to eng#235610) , 69-70 G3TR (up to eng# 235610)
Kawasaki 100cc 1972-73 G5, 71 G3TR (up to eng#235610)
Kawasaki 120cc 1967-69 C2TR Roadrunner, 67-69 C2SS Roadrunner
6N4-2A-4 dry, with acid pack $30.0
wires: male bullet, fuse + male bullet
Honda 1967-68 P50, PC50, 79-80 83-85 XL100S, 86 CT110 Trail 110
Honda 1979-84 XL125S, 79-83 XL185S, 78-81 XL250S, 79-81 XL500S
Trac (Daelim) 1984-90 Liberty, Escot, Image with DK50 engine (not Liberty ES)
Trac (Daelim) 1986-90 Olympic, Clipper, Hawk with DP50 engine
6N4-2A-5 dry, with acid pack $30.0
wires: 6mm eyelet ground, female bullet
Kawasaki 90cc 1973-75 MC1, 73-74 G3SS, 72 G3SS (eng#235611 and up)
Kawasaki 100cc 76-77 KH100B, 76 KV100A, 76-77 KM100A, 76-78 KE100A
Kawasaki 100cc 1974-75 G5, 73-75 G4TR, 75 G3SS, 71 G3TR (eng#235611 & up)
Kawasaki 125cc 1971-73 F6 Series, 175cc 71-75 F7 Series
Yamaha 1979-87 QT50 Yamahopper, 82 MJ50 Towny, 78-81 LB50 Chappy, LC50
Yamaha 1983-84 RX50, 1987-92 YSR50, 77-83 DT100, 70-73 RT360 Enduro
Yamaha 80cc 1973-80 GT80, GT1 Mini Enduro, 76-78 LB80 Chappy, 81-83 DT80
6N4-2A-6 dry, with acid pack $30.0
4-prong plug: male blade, fuse + male blade
(2 of the 4 prongs are for an ignition “kill” jumper)
(unplug the battery and the engine stops running)
Honda 1980-83 NC50 Express
Honda 1980-81 NA50 Express II
Honda 1980-82 CT70 Trail, 83-85 XL80S, 80-84 CT110 Trail
xxxxxxxxxx 6N4-2A-8 dry, with acid pack $30.0 same as 6N4-2A-6
xxxxxxxxxx 4-prong plug: male blade, fuse + male blade
6N4A Tall Shape 2 3/8″ wide, 5 1/8″ tall, 2 1/8″ deep
6N4A-4D dry, without acid $28
wires: 6mm eyelet ground, female bullet
Yamaha 80cc: 1962-66 YG1, 70-71 G6S, G6SB, 72 G7S
Yamaha 100cc 1972-73 LT2, LT3 100 Enduro, 75-76 RS100
Yamaha 175cc 1972-73 CT2, CT3 175 Enduro
Yamaha 1973-75 RD60, 1982-83 XT125, 82-83 XT200
6N4B Flat Shape 3 7/8″ wide, 3 7/8″ tall, 1 3/4″ deep
6N4B-2A dry, with acid pack $32
wires: female bullet, female bullet
Suzuki 1979-80 OR50, 71 TC120, 73-77 RV90,TC125, 78-81 TS100 Honcho
Suzuki 1971-81 TS125 Duster, 77-81 TS185 Sierra, 73-81 TS250 Savage
Suzuki 1983 SP100, 71-77 TC125, 82-83 SP125, 73-81 TS250
Suzuki 1982-85 SP250, 78-79 SP370, 76-77 TS400 Apache, 80 SP400
Suzuki 1980-82 GN400, 81-83 SP500
6N4B-2A-V dry, with acid pack $34
wires: male bullet, fuse + dual fem.bullet+male blade
General 1978-83 5-Star (top tank with Minarelli V1), 5-Star ST (Sachs 505)
Grycner 1979-83, aka Clinton, Jui Li (all step thru with Sachs 505)
AMS 1980-86 Sierra 50 (Sachs 505), Tahoe 50 (top tank Sachs 505)
6N4B-2A-3 dry, with acid pack $32
wires: male bullet, female bullet
Kawasaki 1973-75 F9 Series (350), F11 Series (250)
Yamaha 1988-90 DT50, 74-76 DT100, DT175, DT250, 74 DT360, 75-76 DT400
xxxxxxxxxx 6N4B-2A-4 dry, with acid pack $32
xxxxxxxxxx wires: male bullet, fuse + male bullet
Honda 1969-70 PC50A (US model)
490-2035-5 6N4B-2A-5 dry, wit acid pack $36
4-prong plug: male blade, fuse + male blade
(2 of the 4 prongs are for an ignition “kill” jumper)
(unplug the battery and the engine stops running)
Honda 1978-83 PA50 Hobbit
6N4C Tall Square 2 3/4″ wide, 4 1/8″ tall, 2 3/4″ deep
6N4C-1B dry, with acid pack N/A
2-prong plug: male blade, fuse + male blade
Honda 1974-79 CT70 Trail
Honda 1977-79 XL75, 80-82 XL80S, 81-82 XL100S
6N5.5 Standard 3 3/8″ wide, 3 7/8″ tall, 2 5/8″ deep
6N5.5-1D with acid pack $31
wires: 6mm eyelet, fuse + 2 female bullets
Honda 1964-79 CT90/CT200 Trail 90
Honda 1969-75 ST90, SL90, 67-70 CL90 Scrambler
xxxxxxxxxx 6N5.5-1D-1 w/acid pack $28
xxxxxxxxxx wires: male bullet, fuse + 2 female blades
Honda 1969-70 CL70 Scrambler
6N6 Thin Shape 3 7/8″ wide, 4 3/8″ tall, 2 1/4″ deep
6N6-1B w/acid pack none
wires: male bullet, fuse + 2 female bullets
Honda 90cc 1964-79 S90 Super (C90), 66-69 Honda 90 (C90M)
Honda 90cc 1963-66 CA200 Honda 90 (C200 Touring 90) (top tank)
xxxxxxxxxx 6N6-1D w/acid pack none (discontinued by Yuasa)
xxxxxxxxxx wires: 6mm eyelet, fuse + 2 female bullets
xxxxxxxxxx 6N6-1D-2 w/acid pack none
xxxxxxxxxx wires: male bullet, female bullet
Kawasaki 1982 AR50, AR80, 82-01 KE100B, 79-81 KE100A, 79-81 KM100A
Kawasaki 1974-75 KS125, 76-83 KE125A, 76-78 KE175B,D
Kawasaki 1978-84 KL250A, 77-79 KE250B
6N6-3B w/acid pack none
no wires, 6V 6Ah
Honda 1970-73 SL100 Motosport, CL100 Scrambler, CB100 Super Sport
Honda 1971-93 SL125 Motosport, 74-76 MT125 Elsinore, 73-80 CB125S
Honda 1973-78 XL175, XL250, 74-76 MT250 Elsinore, 74-78 XL350
6N6-3B-1 w/acid pack none
no wires, 6V 6Ah
Yamaha 1978-81 DT175, 77-79 DT250, 75-76 DT400, 76-82 XT500
B39-6 Very Thin 4 15/16″ wide, 4 15/16″ tall, 1 7/8″ deep
B39-6 with acid packet $29
no wires, 6V 7Ah
BSA 250 (6V), 350 (6V), 650 (6V)CZ 1982-99 125, 82-91 175,
Puch Cobra 80, Daytona 50, Monza 50 (Euro models)
Vespa (Piaggio) mopeds 1970’s-80’s (with turn signals):
Vespa 1976-84 C7E (Ciao), 77-80 EEV (Bravo), 78-84 048/068 (Grande)
Vespa (Piaggio) scooters 1960’s-80’s (no turn signals):
Vespa 1965-79 VBC (150 Super), 67-83 VMA (125 Primavera)
Vespa 1963-84 V9A (Vespa 90), 65-79 VLB (150 Sprint)
Lambretta (Innocenti) scooters 1960’s-70’s (no turn signals): 125, 175
B49-6 Very Tall 3 3/4″ wide, 6 5/16″ tall, 3 5/16″ deep
xxxxxxxxxx B49-6 with acid pack none
xxxxxxxxxx no wires, 6V 8Ah
BMW 250cc R25, R25/2, R25/3
BMW 500cc R51, R51/2, R51/3
BMW 650cc R69S
Vespa 1968-73 VSD (180 Rally), 72-79 VSE (Rally 200)
6B8L Standard 4 3/4″ wide, 3 3/4″ tall, 2 3/4″ deep
6CB8L-B dry, with acid pack none
no wires, 6V 8Ah
Yamaha 83-86 CA80 Riva, 84 CV50 Riva
6N11, 6YB11 Long 5 7/8″ wide, 3 15/16″ tall, 2 3/4″ deep
6N11-2D dry, with acid pack none use 6YB11L-2D
6YB11L-2D dry, with acid pack none
Yumicron, 30% more cranking power than 6N11
Honda 1970-73 C70M Honda 70 (elec start)
Honda 1980-81 C70 Passport (elec start)
Yamaha 83-87 CV80 Riva (the last 6 volt US-model motor-driven cycle?)
6N11A Tall Shape 4 13/16″ wide, 5 1/8″ tall, 2 3/4″ deep
490-2062 6N11A-1B with acid none
no wires, tall 6V 11Ah
BMW 1955-69 (one cylinder) R26 (260cc), R27
Harley Davidson SS350
Vespa 60’s-80’s 6V scooters (with turn signals) :
Vespa 1965-79 VBC (150 Super), 67-83 VMA (125 Primavera)
Vespa 1963-84 V9A (Vespa 90), 65-79 VLB (150 Sprint)
6N12A Thin Shape 6 1/8″ wide, 4 9/16″ tall, 2 1/4″ deep
78-1096 6N12A-2D without acid $35
no wires, thin 6V 12Ah
Honda 1969-70 CA175 Touring (CD175)
Hpnda 1978-79 CM185 Twinstar, 80 CM200T Twinstar
B38-6A Tall Shape 4 11/16″ wide, 6 15/16″ tall, 3 1/4″ deep
B38-6A with acid none
no wires, 6V 13Ah
BMW 1955-69 (2 cyl) 500cc R50/2, R50/6,
BMW 1955-69 600cc R60, R60/2, 650cc R69, R69S
12 Volt Battery List (US models)
App colors: small motorcycles, scooters, mopeds
Sources: Yuasa battery charts, moped parts catalogs
green or green means normally in stock
n.a. or none means not available
B2.5L Box Shape 3 3/16″ wide, 4 1/8″ tall, 2 3/4″ deep
xxxxxxxxxx CB2.5L-C dry, with acid pack none generic
xxxxxxxxxx YB2.5L-C dry, with acid pack none Yuasa
xxxxxxxxxx wires: male bullet, female bullet
Honda 1982 MB5 (50cc)
YB2.5L-C-1 dry, with acid pack none Yuasa
4-prong plug: male blade, male blade
(2 of the 4 prongs are for an ignition “kill” jumper)
(unplug the battery and the engine stops running)
Honda ’82-83 NU50 Urban Express
B3L Flat Shape 3 7/8″ wide, 4 3/8″ tall, 2 1/4″ deep
CB3L-A dry, with acid pack none generic
YB3L-A dry, with acid pack none Yuasa
Honda 1990 NS50, 83-84 XL200R Twinstar
Honda 1982-87 XL250R, 84-85 XL350R, 82 XL500R, 83-87 XL600R
Yamaha 1984 XT250, 85-00 XT350
CB3L-B dry, with acid pack none generic
YB3L-B dry, with acid pack none Yuasa
Yamaha 1984 XT250, 85-00 XT350
B4L Flat Shape 4 3/4″ wide, 3 5/8″ tall, 2 3/4″ deep
CB4L-B dry, with acid pack none generic
YB4L-B dry, no acid pack $46.0 Yuasa
Aprilia 2000-01 SR50, 00-03 Scarabeo 50, 00-05 RS50,RS250, 04-05 Mojito,Rally
Honda 84-85 NQ50 Spree, 84 NN50MD Gyro, 83-84 NB50M Aero, 81-82 NX50 Express SR
Yamaha 1986-87 CE50 Riva Jog, 88-91 CG50 Riva,
Yamaha 87-01 SH50 Riva Razz, 89-90 CW50 Zuma, 97-01 CW50 Zuma II
T4L, TX4L Flat Sealed 4 1/2″ w, 3 3/8″ t, 2 13/16″ d
CTX4L-BS with acid $42 generic
YTX4L-BS with acid $56 Yuasa
Honda 1985-87 NB50 Aero, 86-87 NQ50 Spree, 87-01 SA50/SE50 Elite, 88 ZB50
Honda 1985-86 TG50 Gyro, 91-96 CT70 Trail, XL250R, 86-87 TLR200
Tomos 2001-12 Revival, Revival TS, 05-12 Streetmate, 08-13 Streetmate-R
Tomos 2005 LX Limited, 2006-08 Arrow-R
Yamaha 1992-01 CY50 Riva Jog, 01-04 YJ50R Vino
T4B Very Flat Sealed 4 1/2″ w, 3 7/16″ t, 1 9/16″ d
YT4B-BS dry, with acid pack none Yuasa
Yamaha 2006 TTR50E Electric Start
Yamaha 2001-04 YJ50R Vino, Vino Classic
Yamaha 2003-07 TTR90E Electric Start, TTR125E,EL Electric Start
B5L (12N5) Flat Shape 4 3/4″ wide, 5 1/8″ tall, 2 3/8″ deep
12N5-3B with acid none use YB5L-B
12V 5Ah, original on:
Suzuki 250cc 1969 T20, TC250 Scrambler, 70-72 T250, T250-II, T250-J, T250-R
Suzuki 1973-77 GT250 Hustler, 86-88 T200, TC200, 85 SP600, 90-91 DR650S
Suzuki 1969 T305, TC305 Scrambler, 79 T350, 72-75 TS400 Apache,
Yamaha 1968 YAS1/C (125cc), 69-70 DS6B, DS6C (250cc), 69 R3 (350cc)
xxxxxxxxxx YB5L-B with acid none Yuasa (or CB5L-B generic)
xxxxxxxxxx replaces 12N5-3B, 30% more cranking power
Honda 1982-83 C70 Passport (elec start), 83-84 NH80MD Aero, 84 NH125 Aero
Yamaha 1982-83 XT500, 84-89 XT600, 86 SRX600
12N5-4B with acid none
plus and minus are opposite of 12N5-3B
Honda 1962-65 CL72 Scrambler 250
12N5.5 Flat Shape 5 5/16″ wide, 5 1/8″ tall, 2 3/8″ deep
12N5.5-3B with acid none
12V 5.5Ah
Yamaha 125cc 1968 YAS1/C, 69 AS2/C, 250cc 1968 YR2/C
Yamaha 1984-85 RZ350, LS2 (100cc), 70-71 HS1, HS1B (90cc)
Vespa 1977-84 VSX (P200E, PX200E)
Vespa 1978-84 V9B (Vespa 100, 100 Sport), 81-85 VNX (Vespa PX125E)
12N5.5A Box Shape 4 1/16″ wide, 4 1/2″ tall, 3 9/16″ deep
12N5.5A-3B with acid none
12V 5.5Ah
Yamaha 1972 LS2 (100cc), 75-76 RD125, 73-75 RD250, 72 DS7 (250cc)
Yamaha 350cc 1970-72 R5, R5B, R5C, 73-75 RD350, 76-79 RD400
B7/B7L (12N7) Flat 5 5/16″ wide, 5 1/4″ tall, 3″ deep
12N7-3B with acid none use YB7L-B
12V 7Ah, original on:
Harley Davidson 1973-76 Z90, 73-78 TX125, 75-78 SXT125, 74-78 SS125, SX125
Harley Davidson 1974-78 SS175, SX175, SS250, SX250
Kawasaki 1966-70 W1, W2 (650cc)
Yamaha 1968 YG5S, YG5T (80cc), 68 YL2C/CM (100cc), 69-70 L5TA (100cc)
Yamaha 1969-71 AT1E, AT1B, AT1C 125 Enduro, 72-73 AT2, AT3 125 Enduro
rxxxxxxxxx YB7L-B with acid none Yuasa (or CB7L-B generic)
xxxxxxxxxx replaces 12N7-3B, 30% more cranking power
Yamaha 1974-81 DT125 Enduro, 81-82 SR185 Exciter, 1977 XS360-2, 78-81 SR500
B9/B9L (12N9) Flat 5 5/16” wide, 5 1/2″ tall, 3″ deep
12N9-3A with acid none generic
12V 9Ah
Honda 1960-62 CB72 Hawk (250cc), CB77 Super Hawk (305cc)
Honda 1963-66 CA72 Dream Touring 250, CA77 Dream Touring 305
12N9-3B with acid none use YB9L-B
12V 9Ah, original on:
Kawasaki 1976 KH500A, 73-71 H1 Series (500cc)
xxxxxxxxxx YB9L-B with acid none Yuasa (or CB9L-B generic)
xxxxxxxxxx replaces 12N9-3B, 30% more cranking power
Honda 1985-87 CMX250C Rebel, Rebel LTD
12N9-3A-1 w/acid none use YB9L-A2
12V 9Ah (discontinued by Yuasa)
Yamaha 200cc 1968 YCS1, 70-71 CS3B, CS3C, 72 CS5, 74-76 RD200
xxxxxxxxxx YB9L-A2 w/acid none Yuasa (or CB9L-A2 generic)
xxxxxxxxxx replaces 12N9-3A-1, 30% more cranking power
Kawasaki 1986-94 EX250 Ninja, 88-93 EL250, EL250HS, 83 EX305-B GP
12N9-4B-1 w/acid none use YB9-B
12V 9Ah, original on these ’66-76 models
Honda 1966-69 CB160 Sport 160, CL160 Scrambler 160
Honda 1968-73 CB175 Super Sport, CL175 Scrambler
Honda 1967-68 CL160D Scrambler 160D (electric start)
Honda 1974 CL200 Scrambler, 74-76 CB200T
Kawasaki 1966-71 A1 (250cc), 66-71 A7 (350cc)
xxxxxxxxxx YB9-B none Yuasa (or CB9-B generic)
xxxxxxxxxx replaces 12N9-4B-1, 30% more cranking power
Honda 1976-77 CJ360T, 78-79 CB400T1 Hawk 1
Honda 1982-83 CM250C Custom, 81-82 CM400T Twinstar
Honda 1984 CH125 Elite, 85-86 CH150 Elite Deluxe
Vespa 1978-84 VLX (P150X, PX150E)
B10L (12N10) Flat 5 5/16″ wide, 5 3/4″ tall, 3 9/16″ deep
12N10-3B with acid none use YB10L-B
12V 9Ah, original on these models:
Yamaha 1964-66 YA6 (125cc) (electric start)
xxxxxxxxxx YB10L-B with acid none Yuasa (or CB10L-B generic)
xxxxxxxxxx replaces 12N10-3B, 30% more cranking power
Crankshafts
July 14, 2014Motobecane Crankshafts
These are for 1970’s Motobecane mopeds with type AV7 (1970’s versions).
Motobecane Crankshafts: are the same for variator and non-variator pulley-clutches.
Top is used, pre-1980, shorter right side threads. Takes special 16mm bearings 6302QR 16x42x13.
Bottom is new 1980-later original, machined to 15mm at bearings, to take ordinary bearings 6302 15x42x13.
Myrons offers new pre-1980 crankshafts, that take special 6302QR bearings.
But Myrons does not offer the special bearings for the original cranks.
Instead we offer a new original 1980-later crankshaft that has been machined from 16mm to 15mm at the center where the bearings press on. The press fit is precise and correct. The piston pin and needle bearing are new, included, and factory sealed in wax, that peels off. Two 6302 bearings, and two 15x21x4 seals are included. Price is $180.
It is long enough to take the 1980-later hex nut, sold separately at $10. But it will also take the pre-1980 square-hole nut, if the extra threads are ground off.
Horns
July 14, 2014Horn types
AC and DC: Most mopeds do not have a battery, so the electricity is all AC alternating current from the generator (magneto). Motorcycles and some mopeds do have a battery. Their electricity is DC direct current. Horns are made for either AC or DC. DC horns sound like a beeeeeeeep. The pitch is steady because the battery voltage is steady. AC horns sound like a wrong answer buzzer. The pitch goes up and down with the rpm of the engine. AC and DC horns look similar, but do not interchange. All modern scooters and motorcycles have 12 volt DC horns. They are common. Some older Taiwanese mopeds have 6 volt DC horns. AC buzzers are “old school” and are not on anything modern.
Factors that affect AC horn loudness
Internal corrosion: Used moped horns that are on bikes loose loudness after many years. That is from corrosion on the aluminum sound plate and the zinc-plated steel surface it buzzes against. Horns that have been kept in a sealed wrapper do not loose loudness.
Headlight on or off: AC moped horns are loud with the headlight off, but quiet with the headlight on. That is because the horn and headlight share the same generator power, which is not well regulated, and limited in wattage. When the headlight is off the horn gets 10-15 volts, and when the light is on it gets 5-8 volts. The effect gets worse the more watts the headlight uses.
Generator power: AC horn loudness depends on the generator power. You never know if a horn that works on a Peugeot for example, would work on a Puch, until you try it. Or it might work good on Puch at low rpm, but not high. Maybe visa versa on Garelli.
Voltage regulation: Before the mid-1980’s there was a lot less generator power, typically 6 volt 25 watts. With the advent of solid-state AC voltage regulators, generator power was increased, typically 12 volt 50 watts. The regulated AC voltage eliminated the problem of the horn getting loosing loudness when the headlight was turned on.
Factors that affect DC horn loudness
Internal corrosion: Used moped horns that are on bikes loose loudness after many years. That is from corrosion on the aluminum sound plate and the zinc-plated steel surface it buzzes against. Horns that have been kept in a sealed wrapper do not loose loudness.
Battery power: Motorcycles that have electric start have large batteries with plenty of power available for the horn. But pedal or kick start mopeds with small batteries can have a weak horn caused by a weak battery.
Horn testing
You cannot easily tell whether a horn is good or bad. You cannot easily look inside because it is riveted together. You cannot perform a valid test of it unless you have the moped it is intended to go on, running, with working horn wires and button.
Horns for Sale
6 volt AC horn, 18 watt $28 freshly-made in Italy
Switches Menu
July 14, 2014updated 2022-01
Select:
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A. Handlebar Switches
Separate from controls
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B. Handlebar Switches
Integrated into controls
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C. Brake Light Switches
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D. Switches not on the handlebar
All in One means all of the buttons in one switch unit: lights, horn, and engine stop. Most 1950’s-60’s mopeds had an “All in One” type switch, either CEV, Aprilia, or others, mounted on the left handlebar.
USA switches: Before 1972, on motorcycles and motorized bicycles, switches did not have to meet US DOT requirements. They did not have to be in a certain place. They did not have to say what they were for. They did not have to be reachable without letting go of the handlebar. But after 1972 they did have to meet those safety requirements.
Original Equipment Manufacturers (OEM)
From HB4.com Fratelli Pagani was born in 1906 in Milan and evolved together the Italy’s evolution throughout the XX century. It was the first factory of batteries in Italy and began to invest for design the first hand-lamps. It started a wide range of innovations still in use: birth of first case, birth of first anti-black-out lamp, invention of first headlamp, creation of dynamo lamp.
Following the opening of the headquarters in Venegono Superiore (VA) in 1937, the C.E.V. brand was born (Constructions Electromechanical Venegonese) for the production of on-board instrumentations for aeronautic purposes. In the ‘50s, in Milan, the production of batteries stopped and the production efforts focused on the creation of flashlights and lamps. Instead, in Venegono, the production of equipment and headlights went on for motorcycle market. In the ‘70s, CEV company produced mainly for great customers including some international leaders in the batteries and lamps sectors and joined in the distribution process of Italian and foreign large organised distribution networks.
In 2001 CEV was acquired by Zadi Group.
In 1966 Merit Werke began in Germany, then later moved to Malta, in the Mediterranean. They still make automotive switches, with the same MW logo, but with the name Merit Malta.
Italian made Aprilia electrical components were on 1960’s and 70’s motorcycles.
Bulbs
July 14, 2014Contents:
1. a. Wedge bulbs (all glass, push on)
1. b. Festoon bulbs (glass tube, push on)
1. c. Screw base bulbs (screw on)
2. Bayonet base bulbs (push and turn)
3. Plate base headlight bulbs
4. Bulb information
Most moped light bulbs are standard automotive bulbs. Most bulbs are made in 6 volt or 12 volt versions, But finding 6V bulbs is difficult since all cars are 12V since the 1970’s. In all of these magneto/generator powered head lights, a 12 volt bulb will replace a 6 volt one, but won’t be as bright.
1a. Miniature All-Glass Wedge Bulbs:
044.687 6V 1.2w 5mm wedge Osram $2.00
for Tomos speedos (CEV) late 80’s
ELG74 12V 1.2w 74 5mm wedge Flüsser $3.00
for Tomos speedos (CEV black) 1990 to 2002
6V1.7W 6V 1.7w 10mm wedge N/A
12-1080 12V 3w 194 10mm wedge $1.00 or $5.00 for 10
1b. Festoon Bulbs – look like glass fuses
00 glass 000 volts atts price Osr Stanley o Phillips
ends 00 length 0 watts price Osram 000 SAE 00000 part#
6.0 x 6 x 31 6V 0.6w $2.00 0000 00000 000 00000 20.0908
6.0 x 6 x 31 6V 0.6w $0.00 hi beam indicator
7.0 x 8 x 30 6V 3w $2.00 0000 00000 000 00000 CIF 1421
7.0 x 8 x 30 12V 3w $2.00 6428 00000 000 12842 ELB-6428
7.0 x 8 x 37 12V10w none 0000 00000 000 00000 ELB-3475
7.0 x 8 x 37 6V 3w $2.00 0000 00000 000 00000 .
7.0 x 8 x 37 6V 3w $0.00 Riverside tail bulb
8.5 x 11 x 39 6V 5w none 0000 00000 000 00000 .
8.5 x 11 x 39 12V 5w none 6418 3271C 000 12844 ELB-6418
8.5 x 11 x 39 6V10w none 6450 00000 000 06866 ELB-6450
8.5 x 11 x 39 12V 5w $2.00 6413 00000 212 12864 ELB-6413
8.5 x 11 x 39 12V 5w $0.00 CIF 1410
8.5 x 11 x 39 12V10w $2.00 6411 A3373 211 12866 ELB-6411
8.5 x 11 x 39 12V10w $0.00 Riverside brake bulb
8.5 x 11 x 43 12V10w $2.00 6412 00000 000 00000 200019
8.5 x 15 x 43 6V15w $3.00 0000 00000 000 00000 .
8.5 x 15 x 43 12V15w $2.00 0000 00000 000 00000 .
8.5 x 15 x 43 6V15w $2.00 0000 00000 000 00000 .
1c. Bulbs with E10 screw base, single contact
6V0.6W 6V 0.6w $1.50
for 76-80 Peugeot speedometer
14460 6V 6w yellow $2.50
for early Solex 3800 head light
2. Bayonet Base Bulbs
These bulbs have little nubs on the base. You push in and rotate clockwise to install.
Bulbs with BA7s base, 7mm bayonet single
10632.1 6V 0.6w CEV N/A use 7V 0.7W
7V0.7W 7V 0.7w $1.00
6V1.0W 6V 1.0w $1.50
SAE1262 6V 1.5w $1.50
SAE3898 12V 2w $1.50
for 78-80 Motobecane/03-07 Tomos/other VDO
Bulbs with BA9s base, 9mm bayonet single
6V0.8W 6V 0.8w 47 $1.50 long glass
200002 6V 1.5w 51 $1.50 small glass
6V2.0W 6V 2w $1.00 small glass
6V3.0W 6V 3w $2.00 small glass
6V4.0W 6V 4w $2.50 long glass
200003 12V 2w 53 $1.50 small glass
200004 12V 2w 53 $1.50 long glass
for 1987-on Tomos turn or hi beam indicator
12V3W 12V 3w 57 N/A large glass
SAE3893 12V 4w Everglo $2.50 long glass
1423000 12V 4w xxxxxx $2.00 small glass
BA15s base, 15mm bayonet single, small glass
ELB5006 6V 5w 63 $2.00
for 77-later Puch, must have this to be bright
6V8W 6V 8w 00 $2.50 for Cateye turn sig.
SAE81 6V 10w 81 $2.00
SAE57 12V 5w 67 $1.50
SAE97 12V 8w 97 $1.50
SAE89 12V 10w 89 $1.50
BA15s base, 15mm bayonet single, large glass
SAE87 6V 13w 87 none = 6V 15cp
SAE1129 6V 18w 1129 $2.00 = 6V 21cp
H101C 6V 21w 0000 $2.50
6V24W 6V 24w 1133 $2.00 = 6V 32cp very large glass
SAE1003 12V 12w 1003 $1.50 = 12V 14cp
12V21W 12V 21w 0000 $2.50
SAE1156 12V 27w 1156 $2.00 = 12V 32cp
cp = w * 15/12.57 = w * 1.19
BA15d base, 15mm bayonet two-contact, equal nubs
2-filament kinds conduct through the shell, like most bulbs.
6V15.15w 6V 15/15w none 2-filaments 2-contacts
12V21.6c 12V 21/6cp 1176 $2 2-filaments 2-contacts
12V17.5w 12V 17/6w 1158 $3 2-filaments 2-contacts
for most 1950’s car’s turn/brake/tail light. Obsolete.
1-filament kinds do not conduct through the metal shell.
12V4cp 12V 4cp 1178 N/A 1-filament, 2-contacts
BAY 15d base, 15 bayonet 2-contacts, unequal nubs
10630.1 6V 15/3w CEV $2.50
10630.3 6V 18/3w CEV none
for Vespa Ciao tail light
SAE1154 6V 21/5w 1154 $2.00
SAE1157 12V 27/8w 1157 $1.00 box of 10 $6.00
24V216c 24V 21/6cp $1.50
BA20d base, 20 bayonet 2-contacts, unequal nubs
6V25.25 6V 25/25w $7.00
for Derbi Variant Sport 1986-89
20-0018 12V 35/35w Narva $5.00
for Tomos Revival/Streetmate
044.701 12V 25/25w $5.00
for Tomos ’90-on, square HL, ’95-05 Kinetic TFR
3. Plate Base Headlight Bulbs
These are all for head lights, for higher power and precise focus.
P15d (P15d-1) 15×30 “3-hole plate” double 
6V25.25 6V 25/25w P15d base $12
500310 12V 35/35w P15d base $12
12V5050 12V 50/50w P15d base $10
P15d-3 base, 15×25 “3-tab plate” double
12V35.35 12V 35/35w P15d-3 base N/A
P26s base, 15×26 “stepped plate” single
C-1432 6V 15w P26s base $4.50
for 1984-86 Puch with square Niox headlight
and for many 60’s-70’s non-US-model mopeds
20-0023 12V 15w P26s base $7.00
for Tomos Arrow-R and Streetmate-R (dual HL)
PX15d base, 15×24 “plain plate” double
632729 6V 15/15w PX15d base N/A
632787 12V 15/15w PX15d base $7
632843 12V 18/18w PX15d base N/A
633905 12V 25/25w PX15d base N/A
4. Bulb Info
Mopeds frequently burn out bulbs, from both vibration and surges of electricity. Because there’s no battery, the voltage varies a little. At idle the lights are very dim, but at full speed they’re bright. Hopefully they’re not bright white, as that means they might burn out soon. Yellow is good but orange is too dim.
Head light: For some reason, many old 6 volt mopeds need 12 volt bulbs, or else they burn out. Some might even need a 12V AC voltage regulator ($25) added on in addition to 12V bulbs, to help prevent bulb burn out. All 6 volt mopeds can use 12 volt headlight bulbs, but the headlight is dimmer. On most 6 volt mopeds (with head and tail powered by same wire) using 12 volt headlight bulbs, the tail light is brighter. On some 6 volt mopeds using 12 volt headlight bulbs, the tail light is dimmer.
Tail light: European mopeds with 4-coil Bosch 90mm magnetos, like 1977-86 Puch, or 1977-79 Batavus, need a 6V 21W headlight bulb instead of a 12V 26W #1156, in order for the tail lite to be bright.
Brake light: Some bikes have issues where the brake light is needed for the ignition to function. On those with a single 2-filament bulb, they might loose spark when the brakes are applied with a 12 volt #1157 bulb. Then they need a 6 volt #1154 light bulb. On those with two 1-filament bulbs and a secret hidden resistor inside (connected in parallel with the brake light), they normally do not loose spark when the brake light bulb is wrong, burned out, disconnected or missing. See tail lights.
Battery power: Large motorcycles and cars have headlights powered by battery. With a battery the voltage is steady and limited. Those lights do not burn out often (except maybe from vibration). When several lights are powered by one battery wire, and one of them burns out, the others are normally not affected.
Generator power: Small motorcycles and mopeds have headlights powered by generator. With a generator the voltage rises and falls with engine speed, and can become too high at times. When several lights are powered by one generator wire, and one of them burns out, the others get more voltage and become brighter. Then soon they also burn out from that over-voltage. For example, you are riding along and you speedometer light suddenly gets brighter. That might mean your tail light just burned out, and soon the head and speedometer light will follow.
Watts matching: With generator power and without a solid-state voltage regulator, for each generator output wire, the total watts of all the bulbs powered by that wire must match the rated watts of that generator output. Generators (magnetos) usually have more than one lighting output. For example a 1977 Batavus has a 6-wire Bosch magneto with 3 lighting outputs 6V 5W (for 6V 5W bulb), 6V 10W (for 6V 10W bulb), and 6V 22W (for 6V 21W plus 6V 1.5W bulbs). When the correct bulbs are used, the watts match. Then the lights are not too bright going fast, and not too dim going slow.
Voltage regulation: Bulb watts matching and multiple lighting outputs became obsolete in the 1980’s with the advent of low-cost efficient and reliable solid-state (electronic) voltage regulation. A regulator makes the generator behave like a battery, with a maximum voltage limit. Some makes had this earlier in the 1970’s, like Motobecane. Under the headlight was a 2 inch box with cooling fins. A thing that looks like a 80’s power transistor is screwed into it. It is actually a dual zener power diode, that regulates in both directions for AC, in this case 6 volt. It limits the voltage to below about 7 VAC. Almost all modern AC voltage regulators are 12 volt, since 6 volt equipment also became obsolete in the 1970’s and 80’s.
Electrical Componentry
July 14, 2014
Fratelli Pagani (CEV) 1930 catalog page of pocket flashlights
Welcome. Most European-made mopeds have high quality C.E.V. electrical components, made in Italy since the 1920’s by Fratelli Pagani (Pagani Brothers). C.E.V. is a trade mark that stands for Costruzioni Elettromeccaniche Venegonesi. English translation: Constructions Electromechanical of the Venegonese people (from Venegono, Province of Varese, Northern Italy). CEV is now part of ZADI.
ZADI was founded in 1962 by Antonio Zavatti and Enrico Diacci, two former employees of Magneti Marelli. ZADI made all of Piaggio’s locks, and most 1960’s and later Italian motorcycle locks. In the 1997 ZADI purchased GKS (formerly Neiman, maker of fork locks) and other companies, forming ZADIGROUP. In 2001, ZADI purchased the electrical giant CEV, and has since become a world leader in manufacturing motorcycle and vehicle lock sets, lights, instruments, odometers, switches and electronic solutions, such as automatic parking systems.
Aprilia (Italy) made lights and switches for many 1960’s – 70’s Italian, and some non-Italian, motorcycles and mopeds. This greyhound logo appeared on a 1972 Ducati 750GT head light. This Aprilia, an electrical equipment maker, is possibly from the industrial town of Aprilia, near Rome. The famous Aprilia motorcycle make is completely different.
Merit Werke (Germany) made switches for German mopeds, and for Puch, Peugeot, and others. Merit Werke Gmbh began in 1966, in Germany then later moved to Malta, in the Mediterranean. They still make automotive switches and components, with the same MW logo, but with the name Merit Malta.
ULO 
(Germany) made tail lights, reflectors, and turn signals for German mopeds, Hercules (Sachs), Kreidler, Solo, Kynast, and tail lights for many non-German mopeds, Batavus, Sparta, Puch, Peugeot, Motobecane and Honda PA50. ULO was founded by Moritz Ullman in 1947 in Geislingen Germany. Ullman knew how to make molded glass products, like bicycle reflectors.
Luxor (France) made head lights for French mopeds, Peugeot and Motobecane. Luxor has been making quality bicycle lights for about a century. Before electric lamps were “invented” in the 1910’s, Luxor made carbide lamps. In Europe the Luxor Motobecane head light is square. USA-model Motobecanes have a 4.5″ round sealed beam housed in a Luxor ring and bucket.
HR (Slovenia) stands for Hidria Rotomatika, a division of Hidria. Tomos (mopeds), Iskra (moped magnetos), and AET (moped electronics) are also divisions of Hidria. Along with many automotive and industrial products, Hidria Rotomatika made high quality controls and switches for Volocci (electric) and Tomos mopeds, 1992 to 2007. The HR switches are nicknamed “blue button” in the Myrons Wiring Diagrams, because they are part of a sequence useful for identification: TOMOS SWITCHES: 1986-91 had only “black button” CEV, 1992-07 had mostly “blue button” HR, 2002-07 also had “yellow button” Domino, and 2008-13 had only “red button” TBS.
The Hidria Rotomatika controls are referred to here as “1992-2007 Tomos” controls. The only HR logo is on the right switch, barely visible. The “1992-07 Tomos” controls say “TOMOS” on each black plastic lever blade, but say nothing else.
Domino (Italy) is well known for making controls. Since the 1970’s in the US, and before that in Europe, Domino made controls for about 90% of all Italian mopeds, and for about 30% of all European mopeds. They are still going. In the 2000’s Domino also made switches, used on 2002-07 Tomos Revival, Arrow, Arrow-R and Streetmate.
TBS (India?) makes modern motorcycle and scooter controls. Their control levers, throttle, and both switch assemblies all have awesome quality and function and resist breaking. The TBS switches are nicknamed “red horn button” in the Myrons Wiring Diagrams. TBS controls (Domino compatible) are on 2008-13 Tomos mopeds, all models.
Peterson (USA) made tail lights, and head lights for 1970’s American-made mopeds, like AMF and Murray. Peterson began in 1945 making automotive tail lights. They still produce head lights, tail lights, and other automotive items in their huge Grandview, Missouri plant.
Niox (Germany) made head lights for many 1960’s German cars, such as Mercedes Benz, and motorcycles such as Zundapp and Hercules. On 1970’s US mopeds, a NIOX 4.5″ round head light in a ULO housing was original on 1978-81 Puch Magnum. NIOX square headlights were on 1984-86 Puch Maxi Sport LS, Maxi Sport LS II, Cobra, Cobra II, and Austro Daimler. ULO-housed NIOX round headlights were also on some German moped makes like Solo (Odyssey in US). Every other German, Austrian, or Dutch moped had a CEV headlight.
Saturnus (Slovenia) made lamps and reflectors for European cars from the 1950’s on. They began in 1921 making tin cans. Saturnus made lights for Tomos mopeds from 1988 to 2012. Their rectangular head light and rectangular signal light assemblies are similar to and interchangeble with CEV lights, but the individual parts are not. Unlike CEV, Saturnus lights lack the US DOT certification. So most USA version Tomos mopeds have CEV lights. Saturnus is now part of Hella (Slovenia).
Rinder head light
CEV head light
Rinder (Spain) made head lights for Derbi mopeds and motorcycles. Spain had high import taxes to encourage the use of domestic components. That’s why some Derbi parts are Spanish-made-under-license, like the Walker (VDO) speedometer and the Arbeo (Dellorto) carburetor. The Rinder square-hexagon moped head light would have been on the US models, but it did not have DOT approval. That’s why the Derbi Laguna fairing has the “incorrect” shaped CEV round head light. In Europe, the Sport Coppa motorcycle and the 1970’s -early 80’s Derbi Variant mopeds, all had the “correct” square-hexagon Rinder head lights. By the late 1980’s Rinder had a rounded rectangular headlight approved by US DOT, used on the Derbi Variant Sport and DS50.
Stanley (Japan) made head, tail, and turn lights for vintage Hondas. Koito (Japan) made headlights. Denso (Japan) made some Honda electrics. Kokusan (Japan) made electrics. Tatung made Taiwan moped speedometers.
The Czech moped, Jawa, has it’s own components.
Cable Parts
July 14, 2014Contents:
1. Pinch Bolts (knarps)
2. Ends, Adapters, Misc
3. Adjusters (adjustable stops)
4. Ferrules (cable stops), End Caps
5. Bulk conduit (housing) and Wire
———- partition ———-
6. Cloth cable restoration
1. Pinch Bolts
P4-P10: Barrel Pinch Bolts (Knarps)
MM# price dia. len. max
MM# price dia. len. wire part# (length is without bolt)
oP4 $2.00 4.0 9.0 2.0 3548
oP5 $2.00 5.0 7.2 2.0 121-00416 for most throttles
P5a $2.00 5.5 7.5 2.0 3546 for many throttles
P6a $7.00 6.0 11 2.2 good used, MB original
P6b $7.00 6.0 8.0 2.2 good used, Peugeot original, use P6c
P6c $2.00 5.5 10 2.5
oP7 $2.00 7.0 9.0 2.5 3536
P7a $3.00 7.0 9.0 2.5 632876
P7b none 7.0 11 2.5 new, Vespa scooter original
P7c $8.00 7.0 13 2.5 good used, Peugeot original
oP8 $2.00 8.0 8.0 2.8 4906 with plain bolt (shreds easier)
P8a $4.50 8.0 8.0 2.8 49060R with bolt end rounded
P8b $5.00 8.0 13 2.5 620-28020
P8c $2.00 8.0 11 2.5 3538
P8d $2.00 8.0
P8e $3.00 8.0 12 4.0
P8f none 8.0 15 2.5 long enough for hand levers
P8g $5.00 8.0 15 2.5 long enough but no groove or lip
oP9 $4.00 9.0 9.5 3.0
P10 $5.00 9.5 16 2.5 620-28000
Rounded screws: Most pinch bolts have a regular screw end. But some have a domed or rounded end. Those hold better and don ‘t cut the braided wire. The rounded end folds the wire into a curve when the bolt is tightened.
P8a rounded and P8
P20: Stepped Pinch Bolts
oP20 $3.00 Ø3.8 x Ø7.0 Peugeot decomp, chrome repro
P20a $4.50 Ø4.3 x Ø7.1 Barnett remake, must grind 4.3 to 3.8
P21-P22: Loop Pinch Bolts
P21 (left) and P22
P21 (left) and P22
P21 $12.06 pieces M7 11 hex good used, Vespa, for ∅11 arch
P22 $7.50 6 pieces M6 10 hex, 74-91 Tomos, for ∅10 hole
P25, P27: Flat-Sided-Hole Pinch Bolts
P27a 6 x 5, P27b 7 x 6, P25 9 x 7 H60 Grimeca
P27a $2.00 bicycle type Ø6 x 5, M5 thread
P27b $2.00 bicycle big, Ø7 x 6, M6 thread
oP25 $4.00 moped type Ø9 x 7, M6 thread, for Grimeca
P26: Clevis Clamp Pinch Bolts
P26 a,b,c
P26d heavy duty clevis clamp
P26a $17.0 original type for Hercules, AMF & KTM
P26b $10.0 clevis pinch bolt
P26c $4.00 clevis adapter
P26d $13.0 heavy duty for Hercules, AMF & KTM
2. Ends
E1: End Adapters
MM# price 0 part# 0 cable
E1a $2.00 25880 brake ∅6 to ∅8.7 x 8.5
E1b $6.00 Sachs start ∅3 to ∅4∅6 x 13
E1c $2.00 Barnett throt. ∅3 to ∅4.8 x 7.9
E1d $1.50 25349 throt. ∅3 to ∅6.0 x 7.0
E1e $1.50 ooooo throt. ∅3 to ∅5.9 x 4.6
E1e1 $2.00 ooooo brake ∅6 to ∅7.0 x 9.8
E1f $1.80 ooooo brake ∅6 to ∅8.0 x 8.3 side-slot
E1f1 $2.00 ooooo brake ∅6 to ∅8.0 x 10 side-slot
E1g $2.00 ooooo brake ∅5 to ∅8.0 x 10.3
E1g1 $2.00 ooooo brake ∅5 to ∅8.0 x 9.7
E1h $2.00 ooooo brake ∅6 to ∅8.0 x 9.0
E1i $2.00 ooooo brake ∅5 to ∅8.0 x 14.5
E1j $2.00 25063 throt. ∅3 to ∅4.0 x 7.4
E1k $2.00 25049 throt. ∅3 to ∅5.5 x 5.7
E1l $2.00 25062 throt. ∅3 to ∅5.7 x 5.9
E1m $2.00 23420 brake ∅6 to ∅9.0 x 9.0
E2: End Adapters (Anchor Pins)
These are also called holdfasts and socket bolts in some parts catalogs.
Adding a washer: For the ’70’s Domino smaller left lower lever for starting, a washer is added on the replacement, for centering the cable in the hollow lever. When the cable is centered in the lever, it performs the best and does not click or shift around.
E2-DA 00 $0.0 diam length years for lever family
E2-DA 00 $1.80 ∅9.4 09.3 ’02-07 Domino Tomos 221222
E2-DA 00 $0.00 ∅0.0 00.0 ’08-17 TBS Tomos (Domino clone)
E2-D14K $3.00 ∅8.9 12.9 80’s Domino
E2-D14a $8.00 ∅7.9 13.6 70’s Domino start lever
E2-D14b $4.00 ∅7.7 15.7 D14a substitute
E2-D14 x $4.00 ∅7.7 15.7 70’s Domino (or Magura)
E2-AP 00 $4.00 ∅7.8 15.0 70’s-80’s Magura (or Domino)
E2-LA 00 $4.50 ∅7.8 17.9 ’92-08 HR Tomos 227169
E2-D14p none ∅7.8 16.0 70’s Domino (or Magura) slotted pinch bolt
E3: Misc. Cable Items
E3a, E3b
E3c elbows
E3e oiler
E3a $1.00 threaded rod nut M6, some cables have a rod end
E3b $4.00 threaded rod barrel, for a threaded rod end
E3c $0.00 elbows (cable pipes) are listed in carburetor parts
E3d $1.00 soft metal crimp on end cap, covers wire ends
E3e $2.00 in line oiler with attached cap, for oiling the cable
E4: Bicycle Ends
Comparison of moped and bicycle cable ends.
E4a pear ∅3.9/6 x 9 use E5s
E4b barrel ∅7.0 x 7.0
E4c inline ∅4.0 x 5.0
These bicycle cable ends are listed here to show how much different they are from motorcycle cable ends. A bicycle gear cable 4mm end could be ground down to become a motorcycle throttle cable 3mm end. A bicycle brake cable road type interchanges with a motorcycle pear or mushroom type. A bicycle brake MTB type 7mm end fits loosely into a 8 or 9mm motorcycle brake lever, but functions OK.
E5: Solder Type Ends
End E5t
(two-piece)
Wires bent into an umbrella before soldering
MM# price diameter length hole
E5a $0.50 000 6.0 3.0 1.7
E5b $0.50 000 5.5 3.2 1.7
E5b $0.50 000 6.3 3.3 1.6 620-25162
E5c none O00 4.6 ball 1.7 620-24187
E5d $0.50 000 5.4 ball 1.7 620-24162
E5e $1.00 000 6.3 ball 1.7 620-24062
E5f $1.00 000 3.9 7.2 1.6 620-25063
E5g none 000 4.9 7.4 1.8 000-ooooo
E5h none 000 4.6 10.2 1.4 000-ooooo
E5i $1.00 000 6.0 7.0 1.3 620-25349
E5j $1.00 000 9.5 9.5 2.0 620-25580
E5k $1.50 000 3.0 5.0 1.8 wp70-1012 for carbs
E5l none 000 3.2 3.5 1.7 620-24762
E5m$0.50 3.1/5.2 7.8 2.0
E5n $0.50 3.8/6.0 6.6 2.7
E5p $0.50 4.0/6.3 10.1 2.0
E5q $0.50 3.9/6.3 11.5 2.3 620-26298
E5s none 3.3/5.6 8.1 1.6 620-26162
E5t $2.00 000 8.0 9.0 2.0 wp70-1003
3. Adjusters
A1-A13: Screw-in Adjusters
MM# price 0 thread 0 part# (with nuts unless noted)
A1a $6.00 M5-0.75 219625 for Dellorto elbow
A1b $4.00 M5-0.80 for Puch Bing elbow
A1c $5.00 M5-0.90 023089 for Motobecane
A1d $2.00 M5-1.00 very coarse, for ?
A2a $3.00 M6-1.00 hex no slot
A3a $3.00 M6-1.00 round no slot good used
A3b $5.50 M6-1.00 222592 round slotted orig 90’s Tomos blk
A3c $4.50 M6-1.00 021222 no slot w/star nut orig Motobecane
oA4 $5.00 M6-1.00 hex long used
A5a $4.00 M7-1.00 hex used
A5b $5.00 M7-1.00 round slotted
A6a $5.00 M8-1.25 round slotted
A6b $5.00 M8-1.25 hex slotted short
A10 $4.00 M6-0.75 00189 without nut for Motobecane carb
A11 $4.00 1/4 – 24 aluminum
A12 $7.50 M7-1.00 short for Motobecane decomp
A13 $5.00 M6-0.75 110437 for Dellorto, Bing, Gurtner, and Asian carbs
A1, A7: Adjuster nuts
MM# price 0 thread 0 part#
A1a $3.00 M5-0.75 219626 thin nut for Dellorto elbow
A7a $1.50 M5-0.80 thin nut
A7b $1.50 M6-1.00 thin nut
A7c $3.00 M6-0.75 169227 thin nut hex 7
A7d $2.50 M6-0.75 04172 thin nut hex 9 Motobecane
A7e $1.00 M6-1.00 21157 plastic star nut Motobecane
A8-A9: Non-screw-in Adjusters
oA8 $5.00 in-line, for joining two 5 or 6mm sleeves
A9a $9.00 Magura short, good used
A9b $6.50 Magura long, good used
A9c $5.00 Magura long remake, good used
A9d $9.00 Magura short w/elbow for Kreidler
4. Ferrules
F1-F5: Step Ferrules
MM# price od1 od2 id2 length part#
F1x $3.00 5.9 8.0 5.8 13.0 15581 for MB rear brake, use F1c
F1a $3.00 5.9 8.0 5.4 10.0 43678 for Peug front brk, use F1c
F1c $1.50 4.9 8.0 6.5 12.5 3514 zinc-plated steel, shiny
F2x $2.00 4.0 7.0 5.5 11.0 16944 for Motob. decomp, use F3
F3x $0.70 4.0 7.0 5.5 10.0 zinc-plated steel, photo $3/10
F3x $0.70 4.0 7.0 5.5 10.0 aluminum
F4a $1.00 4.0 7.0 6.0 12.0 aluminum
F4b $2.00 4.5 7.7 5.8 16.7 Barnett
F4c $2.00 5.3 6.8 6.2 19.0 Barnett
F5a $2.00 5.9 11.9 10.4 15.4 Barnett
F5b $0.00 0.0 0.0 0.0 00.0 miscellaneous
F5c $0.50 7.9 12.0 6.0 12.0 bicycle brake universal
The above step ferrules all fit loosely over the cable conduit. The end cap type ferrules below fit tight on the conduit, or are crimped on by special pliers. The end caps are supposed to fit tight, for several reasons: For strength and cable performance, to help keep out dirt and water (thus increasing lifetime), and for easier servicing. Unlike the step ferrules, which are necessary, the end cap ferrules are not necessary. Sometimes conduits need to be cut and the end cap ferrule needs to be left off. The conduit will still function good without end caps, as long as the adjuster or other stop piece hole, usually 2.5mm, is not too big. Without a 6mm OD end cap ferrule, a 5mm conduit will eventually slip through an improper stop piece hole, like 4mm instead of 2.5mm. But as long as the holes in the end pieces are the proper size, the cable does not need end cap ferrules.
F6: End Caps
MM# price i.d.
F6a $0.50 4.8 with flare, bicycle
F6a $1.00 4.5 with flare
F6b $0.50 4.8 no flare
F6b $0.50 5.1 no flare, Barnett
F6c $0.50 4.8 no flare, Barnett
F6d $0.50 4.0 no flare Shimano SIS
F6e $0.50 4.5 no flare, Sachs
F6f $0.50 5.0 620-20100 no flare, aluminum
F6g $1.00 5.0 with flare, chrome
F6h $1.00 5.1 with flare, used orig on Peugeot, MB
F6i $1.00 5.0 with flare, Puch
F6j $1.00 5.5 with flare
F6k $0.50 6.0 no flare, Barnett
F6m $0.50 5.5 620-20110 no flare, aluminum
F6n none 6.1 with flare, chrome
F6o $1.00 7.1 with flare, chrome, too big for mopeds
Here is a tapered punch being used to add a flare to a flareless end cap.
5. Bulk Items
B1-B6: Bulk Inner Wire
Sometimes very long cables are needed, for long bikes, or very tall handlebars, or for other things that use mechanical control cables. For 1.2mm and 1.6mm thick inner wires, up to 8 feet, it is better to use bicycle wires. beacuse they already have end(s) and cost less. The same quality 5mm conduit (housing) for bicycles costs much less than for motorcycles, and comes in colors. For thicker or longer cables, the bulk motorcycle wire and black conduit is the only choice.
7 x 7 braid, flexible
1 x 9 braid, strong
B1 610-03080 ∅1.2 1×9 $0.80/ft stiff braid (throttle)
B1 610-03080 ∅1.2 1×9 $6.00/8.5 ft WTL w/carb end
B2 610-03090 ∅1.2 7×7 none soft braid (throttle)
B3 610-03100 ∅1.6 1×9 none stiff braid (brake)
B4 610-03110 ∅1.6 7×7 $1.00/ft soft braid (brake)
B4 610-03110 ∅1.6 7×7 $7.00/9.0 ft WRL w/pear end
B6 610-03120 ∅2.1 1×9 $1.30/ft stiff braid (brake)
B9-B18: Bulk Conduit
B13 black lined
B18 lt. grey lined
MM# 00 part# 0 OD x ID for
MM# 00 part# 0 OD x ID wire price /ft color
B9 610-03310 5.5 x 2.9 2.0 none /ft black
B10 610-03315 5.5 x 2.5 1.6 none /ft black, nylon-lined
B11 610-03320 6.0 x 3.3 2.5 $1.50/ft black
B12 610-03325 6.0 x 2.9 2.0 none /ft black, nylon-lined
B13 1460 0000 4.9 x 2.0 1.6 $0.60/ft black, nylon-lined
B14 1461 0000 4.9 x 2.0 1.6 $0.50/ft white, nylon-lined
B15 0000 0000 5.7 x 2.0 1.6 $0.50/ft brown lined, AMF ’80’s
B16 14427 000 4.8 x 2.0 1.6 $0.30/ft yellow
B17 14426 000 4.8 x 2.0 1.6 $0.30/ft blue
B18 14339 000 5.0 x 1.9 1.6 $0.80/ft light gray, nylon-lined
B20: Bulk Sleeve
B20 1508T32 big outer sleeve 11 x 13mm black PVC
holds three 5 mm cables $1.00/ft new and flexible
Other Controls
July 14, 2014Contents:
Tomos 1991-2007 1. H.R.
Italian Controls 2. Ci.Te. 3. OSL 4. P.V. 5. TS
Spanish Controls 6. Derbi
Generic Controls 7. Mini-bike
1. H.R. Controls
Below are the 1990’s Tomos controls, made by Hidria Rotomatika (HR). They contain HR-made integral switches, sold separately in Switches. HR controls are similar to ’80’s Domino black, but most of the parts do not interchange with Domino.
HR controls are on 1992 to early-2008 Tomos, specifically 1992-93 A35 Bullet, A35 Bullet TT, A35 Golden Bullet, A35 Golden Bullet TT, 1992-95 Colibri 1993 to early-08 Sprint, 1994-01 Targa, Targa LX, 1998-99 TT Classic, 2002-04 Tomos Tomos, Tomos LX, 2005 to early-08 ST, LX. They are also on Volocci electric mopeds.
part# price description
026561 $0.70 wedge bolt M6 x 16 allen
027222 $2.00 pivot bolt
030040 $1.00 nut for pivot bolt M6-flange
222617 $4.00 cone that digs into handle bar, use 223713
223700 $95.0 R assembly brake/throttle no grip
223701 $55.0 L assembly brake no grip
223702 $39.0 L housing brake only
223703 $40.0 R housing brake/throttle
223704 $24.0 lever L HR 92-07 Tomos black, they say TOMOS molded-in
223704 $18.0 lever L HR 92-07 Tomos black, replica, says TOMOS
223705 $26.0 lever R HR 92-07 Tomos black, plastic levers with round bumps
223705 $18.0 lever R HR 92-07 Tomos black, replica, with round bumps
223706 $20.0 throttle twist tube 92-08 Tomos
223707 N/A sliding block (not D1 or D1L) see mopedjunkyard.com
223707 N/A sliding block see also substitute pinch bolt
223708 $2.50 screw that holds throttle twist tube
223708 $2.50 pinch bolt for sliding block
223709 $13.0 throttle helper spring
223710 none brake helper spring Left
223711 none L grip black vinyl octagon with raised dome bumps
223712 $18.0 R grip black vinyl with dome bumps, used, last one
223713 $4.00 cone that digs into handle bar
227169 $4.50 brake cable holdfast/socket bolt longer than other kinds
227996 none brake helper spring right these break often but they still work good
229556 $5.00 adjuster slotted M6 there are also $2 ones not knurled not slotted
M5adj $2.00 adjuster M5 for throttle & choke
2. Ci.Te. Controls
Ci.Te. is an Italian moped lever used on 1960’s and early 1970’s Italian mopeds. They are similar to 1970’s Domino levers. You can see that in the side-by-side comparisons below. Domino blades have the D9 special stepped tube 6mm ID, that snaps into the 8mm pivot hole, to spread out the load over a large area. Ci.Te. levers are more primitive in that the blades rub on the pivot bolt in just two places, and so the pivot bolt gets cut by the sharp edge of the folded sheet metal. Domino levers also have assist springs, but Ci.Te. levers do not. Ci.Te. controls have no facility for mounting brake light switches. Ci.Te. lever blades do not have balls on the end. These last two things are required on USA mopeds. So therefore Ci.Te. levers are rare in the USA. Out of almost 1000 moped levers, new and used, mostly Magura and Domino, there was only one Ci.Te. lever blade. That is how rare they are in Southern California 1970’s -1990’s 20 moped shops leftover parts inventories plus 100’s of local mopeds turned into parts.
Ci.Te. controls on 1968 Lambretta Lambretino
Ci.Te. on ’65 Zanetti
Ci.Te. left and right controls. Right control with no lever $80
Ci.Te. and Domino left control comparison.
Both use M6-1.0 adjusters. Ci.Te. has 7mm brake cable hole. Domino has 8mm.
Ci.Te. and PV right control comparison.
Both have 9.5 x 7.1 x 10mm sliders. Ci.Te. has a thinner twist tube channel.
PV (left) and Ci. Te. (right) sliders.
Middle is a modified PV slider that fits Ci.Te. Price $20
Above is the cutting tool with the same diameter as the throttle twist tube.
3. OSL Controls
O.S.L. levers are heavy duty and high quality Italian controls, used on some mid to late 1980’s US model mopeds including Safari, Benvenuti, and Cosmo (Colt). They look like Domino, except for the kink in the middle of the lever. Myrons does not have any OSL controls or levers for sale. They were (almost) never on any mopeds sold in California. Out of a thousand moped levers at MM, this is the only OSL sample.
OSL left lever assy
OSL left lever assy top
OSL lever bottom
shows brake switch plate inside lever
4. P.V. Controls
P.V. is an Italian moped lever, used on Benelli, Guzzi, Intramotor Gloria, Testi, Rizzato and other Italian mopeds. None of the parts interchange with Domino. The lever blades are all black plastic, as are the throttle twist tubes. The housings are cast aluminum. The housings break easily when the bike falls over. Instead of a pivot bolt they have a press-in 6mm roll pin.
# Guzzi part# price description
00 4860.3390 $0.00 R control assembly with grip
00 4860.3290? $0.00 L control assembly with grip
00 4862.3290? $0.00 L control assembly no grip
01 0000.0000 $6.00 sliding block (different from Domino)
01 0000.0000 $0.00 width 9.5, height 7.1-7.8, length 10.0
02 0000.0000 $4.00 clamp tube ∅5.1 ∅9.0 x 7
03 0000.0000 $3.00 pinch screw substitute D2
04 0000.0000 $3.00 twist tube screw subst. D3
05 4860.5690 $22.0 R brake lever ∅8 hole
06 4860.5790 $22.0 L brake lever ∅8 hole hole
07 0000.0000 n.a. 0 pivot roll pin ∅5 x 14
07 0000.0000 $1.50 substitute screw w/lock nut M5x20
08 0000.0000 $1.50 clamp screw M5 x 22 slot
09 0000.0000 $7.00 throttle tube
10 0000.0000 n.a. 0 R housing
11 0000.0000 $35.0 L housing
12 0000.0000 $7.00 start anchor pin ∅7
13 0000.0000 $4.00 brake anchor pin ∅8
14 4860.5590 $34.0 start lever ∅7 hole
15 4860.3590 $0.00 R grip ribbed short
16 4860.3090 $0.00 L grip ribbed short
5. TS Controls
TS vintage Italian controls are uncommon. They appear to be Domino compatible.
TS throttle control
6. Derbi Controls
Derbi brake levers $21 each
Pre-1987 Derbi mopeds had their own brake levers, made by Derbi, and throttles and grips made by Ideale. From 1987-90 they had Domino Italian made controls.
Brake Levers
The brake lever mounts were welded to the handlebar. So there is no changing controls without changing handlebars or grinding off the original lever perches/housings. Changing handlebars is difficult because the original Derbi handlebars also do not interchange with the rest of the world, because they have special mounts welded onto them.
Pre-1980 had black plastic brake levers, and post-1980 had black metal ones. The aftermarket metal brake levers, made by Vmotoparts, replace both the 70’s plastic and the 80’s metal levers.
Decompression Lever
The original black plastic 1976-1986 Derbi Rabasa decomp levers are scarce or not available. However there is a pretty good substitute available. A late 1980’s Domino choke lever, like on the later 86-89 Derbi Variant Sport, can be modified to fit an earlier Derbi.
Derbi decomp levers top:
1, Domino choke original
2. Substitute for Derbi
3. Derbi decomp original
Decomp levers bottom:
Domino choke mods –
widen pivot hole to 6mm
round off upper “corners”
Substitute lever #2
Substitute lever pulled in
The substitute Derbi decomp lever can be ordered for $12 plus $5 for the modification.
Compared to a universal small clamp-on lever, the benefits of the Domino choke modified lever are:
1. No need to modify the original cable. (With a BMX bicycle lever, the sleeve stop hole is wider. The cable must be cut to insert a wider stop piece. But then the inner wire must be replaced to get the length lost by cutting back, and then a small 5 x 8mm pinch bolt soldered on properly. More difficult.)
2. No need to grind off the welded-on mount. No interference with the lights/horn switch.
3. Goes in the original position, looks proper. The word “choke” wipes off with carb spray solvent.
7. Universal Controls
These are the universal throttles and levers:
1. Magura throttle
2. Generic throttle control with grips
3. Generic brake levers
1. $20.0 #26-mag Magura universal throttle, no grips, uses a P5 pinch bolt cable end 5.5 x 8 mm
1. $20.0 #26-mag fits an installed throttle cable with 28 mm upper exposed length, as shown
2. $15.0 #26-0321 generic throttle w/hard plastic grips, uses a P5 pinch bolt cable end 5.5 x 8 mm
3. $18.0 #12106 pair of generic bicycle brake levers, uses a bicycle type ∅7 cable end
Magura Controls
July 14, 2014updated 2020-05
Contents: 1. 70’s – 80’s Magura Parts
Contents: 2. Magura Moped Controls
Contents: 3. Service Information
Magura was founded in 1893 by inventor Gustav Magenwirth as a manufacturer of gasoline motors, hydraulic press pumps and water pressure devices. Since 1923 in Bad Urach, Germany, they have produced handlebars and handlebar controls for mopeds and motorcycles. They are an industry leader, and still produce handlebar controls for all major makes. Since the 1970s, the company has also made many products for the bicycle industry. The name Magura is from Magenwirth and Urach. The logo is from a rotary rack developed in 1930.
Left 80’s, right 70’s
Wrap-around and Slide-type: There are two main types, wrap around where the throttle cable wire wraps around and attaches to the twist tube, and slide type where the throttle cable attaches to a block that slides in a spiral slot in the twist tube.
70’s and 80’s: It is a subtle difference, but side by side you can see there are two different folded aluminum original Magura levers. The 1980’s “late” right lever, on the left, is longer and straighter than the 1970’s “early” left lever, on the right. When they are not side by side, it is really hard to notice.
1970’s -80’s Magura Parts
Price colors: dark green is good-used, green is new, N/A is not available
Abbreviations: TBCH is threaded brake cable hole, TBLSH is threaded brake light switch hole, AC is auto choke
Right assemblies with item #s and links to photos
R1 N/A 2b 3x 4 6 7 9 10s 13a 15a 70’s silver use R3
R1b N/A 2b 3x 4 6 7 9 10s 13b 15a 70’s black use R3b
R1n $55.0 2b 0x 0 6 7 9 10s 13n nox 70’s silver, no twist tube, no BLSTH
R2 $85.0 2b 3a 4 6 7 9 10s 13c nox 70’s silver, AC (74-79 Tomos)
R2b N/A 2b 3a 4 6 7 9 10s 13d nox 70’s black, AC (78-79 Tomos) use R4R
R3 $74.0 2c 0x 4 6 7 9 10s 13e no 80’s silver
R3 $53.0 2c 0x 0 6 7 9 10s 13e no 80’s silver, minus twist tube
R3b $79.0 2c 0x 4 6 7 9 10s 13f 15z 80’s black
R3b $52.0 2c 0x 0 6 7 9 10s 13f no 80’s black, minus twist tube
R3r $67.0 2r 0x 4 6 7 9 10s 13r no all black Agis replica
R4 N/A 2c 3a 4 6 7 9 10s 13g nox 80’s silver, AC (80-85 Tomos) use R4R
R4b N/A 2c 3a 4 6 7 9 10s 13h nox 80’s black, AC (84-85 Tomos) use R4R
R4r $75.0 2r 3a 4 6 7 9 10s 13s nox all black Agis replica, AC auto-choke
R5p N/A 2b 3x 4 6 7 9 10a 13p 15a 70’s silver TBCH (Peugeot)
R5q N/A 2c 3x 4 6 7 9 10a 13q 15a 80’s silver TBCH (Peugeot)
R6b $55.0 2b 0 4b 6 7 9 10s 13u nox 70’s black open-type wrap-around
R7 $65.0 2c 22-25 6 7 9 10s 21x no 80’s black slide-type (Puch Maxi Luxe)
R7c N/A 2e 22-25 6 7 9 10s 21x no 80s blk slide-type cast lever (Magnum)
Left assemblies with item #s and links to photos
L1 $42.0 1b 6 7 8 10s 12a 14 16 17 18 70’s silver
L1b $45.0 1b 6 7 8 10s 12b 14 16 17 18 70’s black
L2 $38.0 1b 6 7 8 10s 12c 14 00 00 00 70’s silver brake only (74-79 Tomos)
L2b $40.0 1b 6 7 8 10s 12d no 00 00 00 70’s black brake only (78-79 Tomos)
L3 $47.0 1c 6 7 8 10s 12e 14 16 17 18 80’s silver
L3b $40.0 1c 6 7 8 10s 12f 14 16 17 18 80’s black
L4 $39.0 1b 6 7 8 10s 12g 14 00 00 00 80’s silv brake only (80-85 Tomos)
L4b $39.0 1b 6 7 8 10s 12h 14 00 00 00 80’s blk brake only (84-85 Tomos)
L4p $32.0 1p 6 7 8 10s 12g 14 00 00 00 80’s park-brake only (Tomos trike)
L4r $29.0 1r 6 7 8 10s 12r no 00 00 00 all black Agis replica TBCH only
L5p N/A 1b 6 7 8 10a 12p 14 16 17 18 70’s silver TBCH (76-79 Peugeot)
L5q N/A 1c 6 7 8 10a 12q 14 16 17 18 80’s silver TBCH (80-83 Peugeot)
L6 N/A 1c 6 7 8 10s 12f no 16 17 18 80’s black (78-84 Puch Maxi Luxe)
L6e $40.0 1e 6 7 8 10s 12b no 16 17 18 70’s black (78-79 Puch Magnum)
L6c $48.0 1e 6 7 8 10s 12f no 16 17 18 80’s black (80-84 Puch Magnum)
L8 $24.0 no 0 0 0 10s 12z 14 16 17 18 start only (Sachs 505 foot brake)
All of these levers interchange and are 12mm wide at the pivot.
Original levers have a 6 mm top hole and a 5 mm bottom hole.
Some bottoms are the same as tops, others have a cable slot.
Flipping (using a right lever on the left side or visa versa):
Right and left interchange when flipped (bottom becomes top).
If the lever is flipped the pivot bolt must also be flipped, unless
the 5 hole is drilled to 6 and the 6/5 pivot bolt changed to 6/6.
1 Left levers:
1a $38.0 L lever folded alum. no ball
1ar $12.0 L lever folded steel generic no ball
1ar $00.0 needs 6/6 pivot bolt to work well
1b $25.0 L lever folded al. used straight
1bs $20.0 substitute: lever 2b upside down
1bs $00.0 for bolt 6a installed upside down
1bd $28.0 substitute: 2bd upside down + 6e
1bd $00.0 for bolt 6a installed right side up
1c $29.0 L lever folded alum. long
1cr $24.0 L lever folded alum. generic long
1d N/A L lever folded alum. black
1dr N/A L lever folded alum. generic black
1e $36.0 L lever cast aluminum
1er N/A L lever cast aluminum TCCD
1g $25.0 L lever folded aluminum Agis black
1gd $14.0 2g drilled to 6/6 (both holes 6mm)
1gd $00.0 needs 6/6 pivot bolt to work well
1p $26.0 L lever folded al. with parking brake
1p $00.0 mostly for three-wheel mopeds
2 Right levers:
2a $34.0 R lever folded alum. Magura no ball
2ar $12.0 R lever folded steel generic no ball
2b $20.0 R lever folded alum. Magura short
2bu $15.0 2b good used or straightened
2bd $22.0 2b drilled to both holes 6 mm
2c $20.0 R lever folded alum. Magura long
2cr N/A R lever folded alum. generic long
2d $32.0 R lever folded alum. Magura black
2dr N/A R lever folded alum. generic black
2e $25.0 R lever cast aluminum Magura
2er N/A R lever cast aluminum TCCD
2g $12.0 R lever folded aluminum Agis black
2gd $14.0 2g drilled to 6/6 (both holes 6mm)
2gd $00.0 needs 6/6 pivot bolt to work well
S Lever sets R and L: with item #s
Sg $26.0 lever set black 2gd 1gd 6b 6b 7d 7d
Sgb $30.0 lever set black 2gd 1gd 6c 6c 7c 7c
Sb $44.0 lever set short 2b 1bd re-use bolts
Sbb $38.0 lever set short 2b 2b flip left bolt
3 Lower right levers:
3x none right thumb lever original, locks-in off bar
3a $26.0 choke trigger and spring for early Tomos A3
3b none right thumb lever replacement, locks-in off bar
4 Twist tubes: with grip length
4 $32.0 twist tube 100 mm original white (cable loads from front)
4b $27.0 twist tube 100 mm original black (cable loads from front)
4c none twist tube 115 mm original black (cable loads from front)
4g none twist tube 100 mm #4 with ribbed grip #15 original
4r $25.0 twist tube 100 mm Agis black (cable loads from back)
For best performance, this should fit and be smooth
where the lever rubs at.
The 8b spring goes inside the hollow lever, so it fits either side.
5 to 11 Hardware
5 $1.50 friction plate to make throttle stick (leave off)
6a $4-$2 pivot bolt 6/5 orig slot dome M5 x 20 smooth ∅6 x 8.5
6b $1.20 pivot bolt 6/6 allen short M6 x 20 smooth ∅6 x 2.0
6c $3.00 pivot bolt 6/6 black phillips M5 x 25 smooth ∅6 x 11.5
6d $6.00 pivot bolt 6/6 6a with 6e M5 x 20 smooth ∅6 x 11.5
6e $4.50 adapter sleeve changes 6a to 6d ∅5 smooth ∅6 x 3.0
6f $0.70 pivot bolt 6/6 allen head M6 x 20 not smooth
6g $0.80 pivot bolt 6/6 phillips head M6 x 20 not smooth
7a $0.70 pivot nut M5 plastic-lock original light gray
7b $0.70 pivot nut M5 plastic-lock original black
7c $0.55 pivot nut M5 metal nylock
7d $0.90 pivot nut M6 metal nylock
7e $1.00 pivot nut M5 metal nylock black
8 $6.50 left return spring
8b $2.00 return spring R or L (not for solid cast levers)
9 $2.00 right return spring
10s $2.00 clamp screw M6x16 slot dome head
10a $0.70 clamp screw M6x16 allen head (Peugeot)
11 $4.00 socket bolt aka cable anchor/adapter
12 Left housings: with brake switch hole, unless noted
12a $15.0 left housing 70’s silver
12b $15.0 left housing 70’s black
12c $15.0 left housing 70’s silver no start lever (74-79 Tomos)
12d $17.0 left housing 70’s black no start lever (78-79 Tomos)
12e $22.0 left housing 80’s silver with mirror hole
12f $22.0 left housing 80’s black with mirror hole
12g $15.0 left housing 80’s silver no start lever (80-84 Tomos)
12h $15.0 left housing 80’s black no start lever (84-85 Tomos)
12n $10.0 left housing 70’s silver no brake light switch hole
12p $40.0 left housing 70’s silver with TBCH (76-79 Peugeot)
12q N/A left housing 80’s silver with TBCH (80-83 Peugeot)
1974-85 Tomos auto-choke
Thumb button activates choke by
allowing grip to twist in reverse.
13, 21 Right housings: with brake switch hole, unless noted
13a none right housing 70’s silver
13c $44.0 right housing used 70’s silver with choke slot (74-79 Tomos)
13e none right housing 80’s silver
13f $39.0 right housing 80’s black
13g $39.0 right housing used 80’s silver with choke slot (80-85 Tomos)
13h $39.0 right housing used 80’s black with choke slot
13n $35.0 right housing 70’s or 80’s silver no TBLSH (Euro version)
13p $54.0 right housing 70’s silver with TBCH (76-79 Peugeot)
13q $42.0 right housing used 80’s silver with TBCH (80-83 Peugeot)
21 $25.0 right housing black screw-slide-type (some 78-83 Puch)
21b $34.0 right housing used black slotted-slide-type (some 84-86 Puch)
14, 15 Grips:
14 $3.00 left grip 100 mm black ribbed original
14b $11.0 left grip 100 mm black waffle used
14c $6.00 left grip 115 mm black block original
15 $18.0 right grip 100 mm black ribbed original
15b $14.0 right grip 100 mm black waffle used
15c $9.00 right grip 115 mm black block original
20 $12.0 grip set 105 mm #14, 15 ribbed replica
20c $12.0 grip set 115 mm 14c, 15c block original
16 Left lower levers:
16 $14.0 start lever new black plastic with screw
16b $32.0 start lever aluminum long w/screw (Puch 2-spd)
17 $1.50 pinch screw 4mm
18 $3.00 pivot pin
18b $1.00 pivot pin substitute screw M4x20
Magura slider: left is worn, right is new
19-25 Other things:
19 $10.0 clamp-on metal lever substitute for trigger #3
22 $3.00 roll pin for twist tube 2.15 x 26 for 2.0 hole
23 $3.00 screw for sliding block (some 78-83 Puch)
24 $15.0 sliding block screw type (some 78-83 Puch)
24b N/A sliding block late no screw (all 84-86 Puch)
25 $28.0 twist tube Puch slide-type plastic
Magura Moped Controls
Sears Allstate right control
Sears Allstate left control
Magura “Open Wrap Around” silver controls are used on 1950’s and 1960’s Puch, Tomos, Sears Allstate, and many others. Some are cast aluminum levers, and some are folded sheet aluminum.
Most of these did not have threaded holes for brake light switches.
Ball-end levers began in the 1970’s, for safety.
Magura late open wrap around right control
Left black housing,
both start cable and
brake cable holes are
plain with bottoms
Magura “Open Wrap Around” black controls were on 1980’s Euro models, but not on US models.
Like the other Magura wrap around throttle controls, the twist tube has a groove that locks onto a tab in the housing. The two are locked together first, then slid onto the handlebar. Once on the handlebar they cannot become separated.
These have a plain hole with bottom, for the brake cable. Most do not have a hole for the a brake light switch.
Peugeot or Not Peugeot: There are two ways to stop the brake cables. The Peugeot way is to have 6mm threaded bottomless holes in the housings with 6mm adjusters stopping the cables. The non-Peugeot way is to have the housings stop the cables (or the inline Magura-type adjuster) with a slotted recess (hole with a bottom) instead of threads. You can convert to Peugeot style by drilling and tapping to M6-1.0 thread. But there is almost no adjustment range (because most of the hole is already too big, 7mm).
Magura right control
(with choke trigger)
plain with bottom
for no adjuster or
Magura type adjuster
Magura right control
(with choke trigger)
threaded M6-1.0 for
brake cable adjuster
Brake cable hole versions:
L, threaded bottomless hole (Peugeot)
R, plain hole with bottom (non-Peugeot)
Magura right housing
with brake switch hole,
brake cable hole is plain with bottom
Magura left control for
Tomos (no start lever),
no brake switch hole,
brake cable hole is
plain with bottom
Magura “Wrap Around” silver controls are used on 1970’s Batavus, Colombia, Flandria, Foxi, Flying Dutchman, Hercules, JC Penney, Kreidler, KTM, Kynast, Murray, Odyssey, Puch, Sachs, Sears, Sparta, 74-85 Tomos, and others. These US models all had threaded holes for brake light switches. Most Euro and Canada models did not have brake light switch holes.
The brake cable holes on both sides have two versions, M6 threaded bottomless (Peugeot style), or 7mm plain hole with bottom (non-Peugeot style).
These controls on US models all had ball-end levers except for Sears Free Spirit.
Magura-clone right control
Magura-clone left control
no start lever (Tomos type)
Magura-clone “Wrap Around” black controls are used on 1979-85 Tomos Silver Bullet. They are made in Yugoslavia to be Magura-compatible.
Magura-clone levers
The brake cable holes are 7mm plain with bottoms.
Magura late left control
Magura late right control
shown with no grip
Magura “Late Wrap Around” silver controls are used on 1980’s Colombia, Hercules, Murray, Puch, Sachs, 79-83 Trac, and others. The housings are thicker and less rounded. The left has a mirror hole. US models had threaded holes for brake light switches. But most Euro and Canada models did not have brake light switch holes. In these photos you cannot tell if there are brake switch holes or not.
The brake cable holes on both sides have two versions, M6 threaded bottomless (Peugeot style), or 7mm plain hole with bottom (non-Peugeot style).
Magura late right control
Magura late left control
Magura late right control
Tomos A3 choke button
Magura “Late Wrap Around” black controls are used on 80-83 Puch Maxi, 80-85 Sachs (Hercules) and others.
The brake cable holes are 7mm plain with bottoms.
Puch-Magura “Sliding Block” black, used on 78-86 Puch deluxe models.
Most of these are the early, common kind with a screw on the slider holding holding the cable wire. The cable wire itself has no upper end piece. It takes a “universal” or “single ended” throttle cable.
Some of these are the late, uncommon kind with no screw on the slider. Instead the cable wire has an upper end piece 3mm “inline barrel” soldered onto it. The cable is specific to that set-up, and is “double ended”.
The brake cable holes are 7mm plain with bottoms.
Puch Magura sliding block black controls
Left: Slider with a pinch screw for Puch 1978-83
models Maxi Luxe, Newport, Sport, Magnum
(takes a single-ended throttle cable)
Right: Slider with no pinch bolt for Puch 1984-86
all models. Housing has a slot for cable.
(takes a double-ended throttle cable)
xx
Service Information
The tongue and groove lock together, but only when they are off the handlebar.
Magura Wrap-Around Throttle
As mentioned above, the pieces snap together, but only when removed from the handlebar.
Twist tube: The throttle housing has a tongue that goes into a groove in the twist tube. The two pieces are first locked together while off the handlebar, and then slid on as a unit. Then the twist tube is kept from moving sideways.
Thumb trigger: Not all mopeds have this, but all the wrap-around housings have a provision for it. This is also called a choke lever or a decomp lever. The trigger has half-circle-shaped posts that slide into slots in the throttle housing, but only when off the handlebar, and in the “squeezed past max” position. Once on, the handlebar prevents it from detaching.
Tomos A3 auto choke thumb button: This button, when pushed in, lets the throttle cable go all the way slack for cold starting. When it is not pushed in, it allows the cable to stay a little taut for normal idling. Idle speed is adjusted by the tightness of the throttle cable, at the handlebar by the Magura type cable adjuster.
Installing a throttle cable on a Magura wrap around throttle
Installing a throttle cable: With an original Magura twist tube, the cable installs from the outer side, just behind the grip. Turn the grip forward to the closed position. Locate where the cable end is. Peel the flange of the grip there back with your thumb, and hold it there. With the other hand, place the sideways barrel end of the throttle cable into the cavity. Lay the wire over the ridge, and wrap it around the curved guide. When pulled taut it should fall into it’s groove. The throttle should pull the wire and move free.
With a Magura-clone twist tube, the cable installs from the inner side. So the twist tube has to be removed. That means the whole throttle has to be removed from the handlebar. But the cable is more protected.
How to install the throttle cable:
Worn throttle cable groove: The curved cable guide groove can become worn in the middle. It can become so bad that the throttle feels like a hack saw and makes a ripping sound like a zipper. When that happens the cable will soon be cut through and break. The cause of the worn groove is lack of lubrication. Moped cables and controls need oil occasionally.
Worn Magura wrap-around throttle housing
Restoring a worn groove
The remedy is to re-cut the bottom of the curved guide. The best tool is a masonry hack saw blade. It has the exact width and round shape. The linear saw is moved in a curved motion. The bottom of the channel is visually checked every few strokes, to see what areas need more cutting.
Installing a Magura brake lever spring.
Lubrication: Lube the cables and controls with a drip oil, like 3-in-1 or Tri Flow or any high tech lubricant. Tri Flow is thin so it penetrates in and clings to metal, like WD40. But after awhile when most of the liquid drys up, it leaves behind microscopic Teflon particles embedded in the metal surface.
Making custom cables: Here are the distances of the exposed cable wires, for Magura wrap-around type moped controls.