Cable Parts

1. Pinch Bolts (knarps)
2. Ends, Adapters, Misc
3. Adjusters (adjustable stops)
Ferrules (cable stops), End Caps
5. Bulk conduit (housing) and Wire

———- partition ———-
6. Cloth cable restoration


1. Pinch Bolts


P4-P10: Barrel Pinch Bolts (Knarps)

MM#  price  dia. len. max
MM#  price  dia. len. wire  part#    (length is without bolt)
oP4  $2.00  4.0 9.0  2.0  3548
oP5  $2.00  5.8 8.0  2.0  121-00416 for most throttles

P6a  $7.00  6.0 11   2.2  good used, MB original
P6b  $7.00  6.0 8.0  2.2  good used, Peugeot original, use P6c
P6c  $2.00  5.5 10   2.5
oP7  $2.00  7.0 9.0  2.5  3536
P7a  $3.00  7.0 9.0  2.5  632876
P7b  none   7.0 11   2.5  new, Vespa scooter original

P7c  $8.00  7.0 13   2.5  good used, Peugeot original
oP8  $2.00  8.0 8.0  2.8  4906 with plain bolt (shreds easier)
P8a  $4.50  8.0 8.0  2.8  49060R with bolt end rounded
P8b  $5.00  8.0 13   2.5  620-28020
P8c  $2.00  8.0 11   2.5  3538

P8d  $2.00  8.0
P8e  $3.00  8.0 12   4.0
P8f   none   8.0 15   2.5  long enough for hand levers
P8g  $4.00  8.0 15   2.5  long enough but no groove or lip

oP9  $4.00  9.0 9.5  3.0  
P10  $5.00  9.5 16   2.5  620-28000

Rounded screws: Most pinch bolts have a regular screw end. But some have a domed or rounded end. Those hold better and don ‘t cut the braided wire. The rounded end folds the wire into a curve when the bolt is tightened.

Domed pinch bolts hold better

Domed and regular 5mm pinch bolts with 8mm barrels

P8a rounded and P8






P20: Stepped Pinch Bolts

oP20  $3.00 Ø3.8 x Ø7.0 Peugeot decomp, chrome repro
P20a  $5.00 Ø4.3 x Ø7.1  Barnett remake, must grind 4.3 to 3.8

P21-P22: Loop Pinch Bolts

P10 and P11 loop pinch bolts

P21 (left) and P22

P10 and P11 taken apart

P21 (left) and P22






P21  $12.0 6 pieces M7 11 hex good used, Vespa, for ∅11 arch
P22  $7.50 6 pieces M6 10 hex, 74-91 Tomos, for ∅10 hole

P25, P27: Flat-Sided-Hole Pinch Bolts

P27a 6 x 5, P27b 7 x 6, P25 9 x 7 H60 Grimeca

P27a  $2.00  bicycle type Ø6 x 5, M5 thread
P27b  $2.00  bicycle big,  Ø7 x 6, M6 thread
oP25  $4.00  moped type Ø9 x 7, M6 thread, for Grimeca

P26: Clevis Clamp Pinch Bolts

P6 a,b,c clevis pinch bolts

P26 a,b,c

P26d heavy duty clevis clamp







P26a  $17.0 original type for Hercules, AMF & KTM
P26b  $10.0 clevis pinch bolt
P26c  $4.00 clevis adapter
P26d  $13.0 heavy duty  for Hercules, AMF & KTM




2. Ends   


E1: End Adapters

MM#  price 0 part# 0 cable 
$2.00 25880  brake ∅6 to ∅8.7 x 8.5
E1b$6.00 Sachs   start  ∅3 to ∅4∅6 x 13
E1c$2.00 Barnett throt. ∅3 to ∅4.8 x 7.9
E1d$1.50 25349  throt. ∅3 to ∅6.0 x 7.0
E1e$1.50 ooooo   throt. ∅3 to ∅5.9 x 4.6
E1e1 $2.00 ooooo   brake ∅6 to ∅7.0 x 9.8
E1f   $1.80 ooooo   brake ∅6 to ∅8.0 x 8.3 side-slot
E1f1 $2.00 ooooo   brake ∅6 to ∅8.0 x 10   side-slot
E1g   $2.00 ooooo   brake ∅5 to ∅8.0 x 10.3
E1g1$2.00 ooooo   brake ∅5 to ∅8.0 x 9.7
E1h   $2.00 ooooo   brake ∅6 to ∅8.0 x 9.0
E1i    $2.00 ooooo   brake ∅5 to ∅8.0 x 14.5
E1j    $2.00 25063  throt. ∅3 to ∅4.0 x 7.4
E1k   $2.00 25049  throt. ∅3 to ∅5.5 x 5.7
E1l    $2.00 25062  throt. ∅3 to ∅5.7 x 5.9
E1m  $2.00 23420  brake ∅6 to ∅9.0 x 9.0

E2: End Adapters (Anchor Pins)

These are also called holdfasts and socket bolts in some parts catalogs.

Adding a washer: For the ’70’s Domino smaller left lower lever for starting, a washer is added on the replacement, for centering the cable in the hollow lever. When the cable is centered in the lever, it performs the best and does not click or shift around.

E2-DA 00 $0.0     diam length years  for lever family
E2-DA 00
$1.80    ∅9.4 09.3  ’02-07 Domino Tomos 221222
E2-DA 00
$0.00    ∅0.0 00.0  ’08-17 TBS Tomos (Domino clone)

$3-000  ∅8.9 12.9  80’s Domino 
$8-000  ∅7.9 13.6  70’s Domino start lever 

$4-000  ∅7.7 15.7  D14a substitute
E2-D14 x  
$3-000  ∅7.7 15.7  70’s Domino (or Magura)
E2-AP 00
$4.00    ∅7.8 15.0  70’s-80’s Magura (or Domino)
E2-LA 00
$4.50    ∅7.8 17.9  ’92-08 HR Tomos 227169


E3: Misc. Cable Items

E2 a,b rod ends

E3a, E3b

E3 elbow

E3c elbows

E4 inline oiler

E3e oiler









E3a$1.00 threaded rod nut M6, some cables have a rod end
E3b$4.00 threaded rod barrel, for a threaded rod end
E3c  $0.00 elbows (cable pipes) are listed in carburetor parts
E3d  $1.00 soft metal crimp on end cap, covers wire ends
E3e$2.00 in line oiler with attached cap, for oiling the cable

E4: Bicycle Ends

Comparison of moped and bicycle cable ends. Some can interchange and some cannot.

E4a  pear  ∅3.9/6 x 9   use E5s 
E4b  barrel ∅7.0 x 7.0
E4c  inline ∅4.0 x 5.0

These bicycle cable ends are listed here to show how much different they are from motorcycle cable ends. A bicycle gear cable 4mm end could be ground down to become a motorcycle throttle cable 3mm end. A bicycle brake cable road type interchanges with a motorcycle pear or mushroom type. A bicycle brake MTB type 7mm end fits loosely into a 8 or 9mm motorcycle brake lever, but functions OK. 

E5: Solder Type Ends

End E5t

Cable end wires bent into an umbrella before soldering

Wires bent into an umbrella before soldering









E5 a,b,c,d,e,f,g,h,i,j,k,l,m,n,o,p,q,r,s Cable Ends for Soldering

MM# price  diameter length hole
E5a $0.50
  000 6.0   3.0   1.7  
E5b $0.50  000 5.5   3.2   1.7
E5b $0.50  000 6.3   3.3   1.6  620-25162
E5c  none  O00 4.6   ball   1.7  620-24187
E5d $0.50  000 5.4   ball   1.7  620-24162
E5e $1.00  000 6.3   ball   1.7  620-24062
E5f  $1.00  000 3.9   7.2   1.6  620-25063
E5g  none  000 4.9   7.4   1.8  000-ooooo 
E5h  none  000 4.6  10.2  1.4  000-ooooo 
E5i   $1.00  000 6.0   7.0   1.3  620-25349
E5j   $1.00  000 9.5   9.5   2.0  620-25580
E5k $1.00  000 3.0   5.0   1.8  wp70-1012 for carbs
E5l   none   000 3.2   3.5   1.7   620-24762
E5m$0.50  3.1/5.2   7.8   2.0
E5n $0.50  3.8/6.0   6.6   2.7
E5p $0.50  4.0/6.3  10.1  2.0
E5q $0.50  3.9/6.3  11.5  2.3  620-26298 
E5s  none   3.3/5.6   8.1   1.6  620-26162 
E5t $2.00  000  8.0   9.0   2.0  wp70-1003


3. Adjusters


A1-A13: Screw-in Adjusters



MM# price 0 thread  0 part#   (with nuts unless noted)
$6.00  M5-0.75  219625 for Dellorto elbow
A1b  $4.00  M5-0.80  for Puch Bing elbow
A1c  $5.00  M5-0.90  023089 for Motobecane
A1d  $2.00  M5-1.00  very coarse, for ?
A2a  $3.00  M6-1.00  hex no slot        
A3a  $3.00  M6-1.00  round no slot   good used
A3b  $5.50  M6-1.00  222592 round slotted orig 90’s Tomos blk
A3c  $4.50  M6-1.00  021222 no slot w/star nut orig Motobecane
oA4  $5.00  M6-1.00  hex long used       
A5a  $4.00  M7-1.00  hex used
A5b  $5.00  M7-1.00  round slotted    
A6a  $5.00  M8-1.25  round slotted  
A6b  $5.00  M8-1.25  hex slotted  short
A10  $4.00  M6-0.75  00189 without nut for Motobecane carb
A11  $4.00  1/4 – 24  aluminum             
A12  $7.50  M7-1.00  short for Motobecane decomp
A13  $5.00  M6-0.75  110437 for Dellorto, Bing, Gurtner, and Asian carbs

A1, A7: Adjuster nuts

MM#  price 0 thread  0 part#   
  $3.00  M5-0.75 219626 thin nut for Dellorto elbow
A7a  $1.50  M5-0.80 thin nut                
A7b  $1.50  M6-1.00 thin
A7c  $3.00  M6-0.75 169227 thin nut hex 7
A7d  $2.50  M6-0.75 04172 thin nut hex 9 Motobecane
A7e  $1.00  M6-1.00
21157 plastic star nut  Motobecane 

A8-A9: Non-screw-in Adjusters

oA8  $5.00  in-line, for joining two 5 or 6mm sleeves
A9a  $9.00  Magura short, good used
A9b  $6.50  Magura long, good used
A9c  $5.00  Magura long remake, good used
A9d  $9.00  Magura short w/elbow for Kreidler



4. Ferrules


F1-F5: Step Ferrules

MM#  price  od1  od2  id2  length part# 
  $3.00  5.9  8.0  5.8  13.0  15581 for MB rear brake, use F1c
  $3.00  5.9  8.0  5.4  10.0  43678 for Peug front brk, use F1c
  $1.50  4.9  8.0  6.5  12.5  3514 zinc-plated steel, shiny
  $2.00  4.0  7.0  5.5  11.0  16944 for Motob. decomp, use F3
F3x  $0.50  4.0  7.0  5.5  10.0  zinc-plated steel, photo $3/10
F3x  $0.50  4.0  7.0  5.5  10.0  aluminum
F4a  $1.00  4.0  7.0  6.0  12.0  aluminum
F4b  $2.00  4.5  7.7  5.8  16.7  Barnett
F4c  $2.00  5.3  6.8  6.2  19.0  Barnett
F5a  $2.00  5.9 11.9 10.4 15.4  Barnett
F5b  $0.00  0.0  0.0  0.0  00.0  miscellaneous
F5c  $0.50  7.9 12.0 6.0  12.0  bicycle brake universal

The above step ferrules all fit loosely over the cable conduit. The end cap type ferrules below fit tight on the conduit, or are crimped on by special pliers. The end caps are supposed to fit tight, for several reasons: For strength and cable performance, to help keep out dirt and water (thus increasing lifetime), and for easier servicing. Unlike the step ferrules, which are necessary, the end cap ferrules are not necessary. Sometimes conduits need to be cut and the end cap ferrule needs to be left off. The conduit will still function good without end caps, as long as the adjuster or other stop piece hole, usually 2.5mm, is not too big. Without a 6mm OD end cap ferrule, a 5mm conduit will eventually slip through an improper stop piece hole, like 4mm instead of 2.5mm. But as long as the holes in the end pieces are the proper size, the cable does not need end cap ferrules.   


F6: End Caps

MM#  price  i.d. 
F6a  $0.50
4.8 with flare, bicycle
F6a  $1.00 4.5 with flare
F6b  $0.50 4.8 no flare
F6b  $0.50 5.1 no flare, Barnett
F6c  $0.50 4.8 no flare, Barnett
F6d  $0.50 4.0 no flare Shimano SIS
F6e  $0.50 4.5 no flare, Sachs
F6f   $0.50 5.0  620-20100 no flare, aluminum
F6g  $1.00 5.0 with flare, chrome
F6h  $1.00 5.1 with flare, used  orig on Peugeot, MB
F6i   $1.00 5.0 with flare, Puch
F6j   $1.00 5.5 with flare
F6k  $0.50 6.0 no flare, Barnett
F6m $0.50 5.5  620-20110 no flare, aluminum
F6n  none  6.1 with flare, chrome
F6o  $1.00 7.1 with flare, chrome, too big for mopeds


Here is a tapered punch being used to add a flare to a flareless end cap.




5. Bulk Items


B1-B6: Bulk Inner Wire

Sometimes very long cables are needed, for long bikes, or very tall handlebars, or for other things that use mechanical control cables. For 1.2mm and 1.6mm thick inner wires, up to 8 feet, it is better to use bicycle wires. beacuse they already have end(s) and cost less. The same quality 5mm conduit (housing) for bicycles costs much less than for motorcycles, and comes in colors. For thicker or longer cables, the bulk motorcycle wire and black conduit is the only choice.

top B5 7 x 7 braid, flexible bot. B3 1 x 19 braid, stiff

7 x 7 braid, flexible
1 x 9 braid, strong

B1 610-03080 ∅1.2 1×9  $0.80/ft  stiff braid (throttle)
B1 610-03080 ∅1.2 1×9  $6.00/8.5 ft WTL w/carb end
B2 610-03090 ∅1.2 7×7  none   soft braid (throttle)
B3 610-03100 ∅1.6 1×9  none   stiff braid (brake)
B4 610-03110 ∅1.6 7×7  $1.00/ft   soft braid (brake)
B4 610-03110 ∅1.6 7×7  $7.00/9.0 ft WRL w/pear end
B6 610-03120 ∅2.1 1×9  $1.30/ft  stiff braid (brake)


B9-B18: Bulk Conduit

B13 conduit with liner

B13 black lined

B18 silver conduit

B18  lt. grey lined







MM# 00 part# 0 OD x ID   for
MM# 00 part# 0 OD x ID  wire  price /ft color

B9   610-03310 5.5 x 2.9  2.0  none /ft black
B10 610-03315 5.5 x 2.5  1.6  none /ft black, nylon-lined
B11 610-03320 6.0 x 3.3  2.5  $1.50/ft black
B12 610-03325 6.0 x 2.9  2.0  none /ft black, nylon-lined
B13 1460 0000 4.9 x 2.0  1.6  $0.60/ft black,  nylon-lined
B14 1461 0000 4.9 x 2.0  1.6  $0.50/ft white,  nylon-lined
B15 0000 0000 5.7 x 2.0  1.6  $0.50/ft brown lined, AMF ’80’s
B16 14427 000 4.8 x 2.0  1.6  $0.30/ft yellow  
B17 14426 000 4.8 x 2.0  1.6  $0.30/ft blue   
B18 14339 000 5.0 x 1.9  1.6  $0.80/ft light gray, nylon-lined


B20: Bulk Sleeve

B20  1508T32  big outer sleeve 11 x 13mm black PVC
holds three 5 mm cables    $1.00/ft   new and flexible




Ready to jump!

Ready to jump!

1942 BSA Airborne Bicycle

1942 BSA Airborne bike

6. Cloth Cable Restoration

Since World War II, most cable conduit is coated with soft nylon or vinyl type plastic, to be flexible and waterproof. But before the 1950’s, most cable was coated in woven cotton cloth. The same is true with electrical wires. Early 1900’s electrical wires had cloth insulation, while late 1900’s wires had soft plastic.

Modern plastic coated cables will replace the older woven types, but they do not have the old fashioned appearance. None of the normal cable suppliers, bicycle or motorcycle, sell cloth coated cables.

One historic old bicycle with cloth covered cables was the 1939-1945 BSA Airborne Bicycle. In WWII British commandos would jump out of planes with these bicycles and then quietly ride miles undetected to the destination. 

cable housings 4

A shoelace can cover a cable

In 2014 a bike mechanic in Canada was restoring a BSA Airborne Bicycle. He ordered cable parts from Myrons Mopeds. That inspired Shaun to find a way to make cloth cables. A few days later, walking down the sidewalk, Shaun saw a purple Lakers shoelace laying on the sidewalk. It was big enough to see that it was actually a hollow tube. At that moment Shaun realized that most shoelaces are hollow tubes, in different sizes, colors, and lengths. A hollow cloth tube made from a shoelace could cover a modern cable to make it look “vintage”.

In 2015 an medical engineer in Alabama was restoring a different BSA Airborne Bicycle. He ordered cable parts from Myrons Mopeds. Shaun mentioned the idea of using shoelaces to reproduce vintage cloth cables. A few months later that person made this detailed report on how he successfully made accurate replica cloth cables out of modern plastic ones.

cable housings 1

Middle is original, others are restored

cable housings 2

Middle is old original, others are new replicas










The attached pictures are the original housing (in the middle) with the new ones.  The finish came out really really well.  It’s hard to really see in the pictures but it is almost exact reproduction.  It took a lot of work and a lot of patience but here’s how I did it.
1) I bought flak jacket brake cable housing.  This has a steel inner core wrapped in kevlar, then a plastic outer covering.  I then cut away the plastic outer covering and the kevlar comes with it.  You need to use this type housing because the steel inner core is a smaller diameter than a normal brake cable housing and that is necessary to offset for the extra thickness of the shoelace so you can get on the brass housing ferrules later.  
2) face and chamfer the steel housing on a sander.
3) I inserted some straight pins with a little silicone sealant on the pin head into the ends of the steel inner cores.  This is to seal the inside of the steel inner core from the plastidip later.  Let the silicone dry so the pins don’t accidentally come out later.  Just use a little sealant.  All you need to do is seal the pin head to the housing but if you use too much you’ll end up with sealant inside the housing and it’ll be hard to remove the pins later.
4) I got some black tubular shoe laces.  Turns out not all shoe laces are created equal and if it does specifically say tubular, then it is not a tube of cloth when you cut it open.  I used 1/2″ tubular shoe laces and that worked better than some smaller diameter ones I found.  After you cut the laces, spread apart the tube and burn the ends so they don’t unravel later.
5) Confirm that you have everything setup and ready to go for the next several steps because once you start you will be on a time clock.  You’ll have about 10 minutes of working time and a lot to do in that time (step 6 – 11).  Do a dry run first to make sure you know where everything is and work out any kinks in your process.
6) get a can of black plastidip from lowes (you will also need a spray can of black plastidip and a spray can of the glossifier later) pour a portion of the black plastidip into a small disposable pan.  While wearing gloves soak the shoe laces in the plastidip and kneed and squeeze the plastidip into the cloth.
7) coat the steel inner cable with plastidip
8) insert the steel inner cable into the plastidip soaked shoe lace
cable housings 3

How to stretch, tighten, and bond the cloth.

9)  secure one end of the shoe lace to a hook and the other end to a ratchet strap (see picture)

10) tighten the ratchet strap to tension the shoe lace onto the cable.  As you stretch the shoe lace, it will tighten on the steel inner cable and squeeze out excess plastidip
11) squeegee off excess plastidip.  I used a latex glove wrapped around once.  Once it looks reasonable, STOP.
12) take some thread and use a criss cross pattern on the last 5 – 8 mm of the housing on either side.  This will secure and compress the shoelace to the housing so a ferrule can fit over it later.
13) allow that to cure to 4 hours.
14) mask off the 5 – 8 mm area that your tied off at either end
15) using the black plastidip spray, starting applying layers of plastidip every 45 minutes.  I did 4 coats.  The more coats you add, the less you’ll see the shoe lace but the thicker it’ll get.  Let that cure at least 4 hours
16) spray two coats of the glossifier to provide some UV protection and the original housings had a glossy sheen to them.
17) let all of that cure to 8+ hours.  The plastidip is so thick at this point, it will take a while.  If you pull it off too early, the inside will still be guey and the shoelace will separate from the steel inner core.
18) cut off the excess, pull out the pins, carefully trim the edge of the shoelace housing about 1mm back from the steel inner core.
19) run a spare brake cable through the house to clear out any excess sealer or plastidip.  If a brake cable won’t fit, use a shifter cable first.
20) Build your brake housing assembles by first putting the ferrules on one end of the cable, threading the cable through (with oil) into the housing.  The excess oil that is now on the housing can be used to help install the ferrule.  
21) press on the first ferrule.  
22) thread the second ferrule on and then press it on the other side using a little oil.  The plastidip is pretty tacky and if the ferrule grabs it the wrong way, it will seperate the shoe lace from the housing and you will have to do everything all over again.  Do everything you can to ensure the ferrules will slip over the finished housing.
Done.  Thanks for the idea, it worked, but required A LOT of trial and error to get this process down and then several days to actually make them.  You are welcome to pass on this information to anyone that it could benefit.