Cable Parts

July 14, 2014

Contents:  1. Pinch Bolts (knarps)
Contents:  2. Ends, Adapters, and Elbows
Contents:  3. Adjusters (adjustable stops)
Contents:  4.
Ferrules (cable stops) and End Caps
Contents:  5. Bulk conduit (housing) and inner wire

Contents:  6. Cloth cable restoration


1.   P = Pinch Bolts

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

P10 and P11 loop pinch bolts

P21 (left) and P22
loop pinch bolts

P10 and P11 taken apart

P21 (left) and P22
disassembled

P25 Grimeca pinch bolt

P6 a,b,c clevis pinch bolts

P26 a,b,c clevis pinch bolts

P7 a, b bicycle types

P27 a,b,c bicycle items

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
                       (barrel pinch bolt length is without bolt)
P4 000003548 barrel pinch bolt  4mm  x 9 long  2.0 max wire      $2
P5  121-00416 barrel pinch bolt 5.5mm x 8 long 2.0 max wire      $2  new, for most throttles and some choke levers
P6a                  barrel pinch bolt  6mm x 11 long 2.2 max wire      $5  good used, Motobecane brakes original 
P6b                  barrel pinch bolt  6mm  x 8 long 2.2 max wire      $8  good used, Peugeot choke & throttle
P7 000003536 barrel pinch bolt  7mm x 9 long 2.5 max wire      $2
P7a 00632876 barrel pinch bolt  7mm x 9 long 2.5 max wire      $3
P7b 00000000 barrel pinch bolt 7mm x 11 long 2.5 max wire      $4  new, Vespa scooter gear shift original 
P7c                  barrel pinch bolt 7mm x 13 long 2.5 max wire      $8  good used, Peugeot brakes original
P8 000049060 barrel pinch bolt  8mm x 8 long 2.8 max wire      $2  new, with plain bolt (slips and shreds easier)
P8a 0049060R barrel pinch bolt  8mm x 8 long  2.8 max wire      $4  new, with bolt end rounded 

P8b 620-28020 barrel pinch bolt 8mm x 13 long 2.5 max wire      $5
P8c 000-00000 barrel pinch bolt  8mm
P8d 000-00000 barrel pinch bolt 8mm
P8e 000-00000 barrel pinch bolt  8mm x 12 long 4.0 max wire     $3   
P8f 000000 M9 barrel pinch bolt  8mm x 15 long 2.5 max wire   N/A  long enough for Domino or Magura levers

P8g 000-00000 barrel pinch bolt  8mm x 15 long 2.5 max wire    $4  long enough but no groove or lip
P9 0000-00000 barrel pinch bolt  9mm x 9.5 long 3.0 max wire     $4
P10 620-28000 barrel pinch bolt 9.5mm x 16 long 2.5 max wire     $5
P20                  odd shape pinch bolt                                               $3  Peugeot decomp, original used
P20a                odd shape pinch bolt brass                                      $2  new, Peugeot decomp Barnett remake
P21                  loop pinch bolt 6 pieces 7mm 11 hex                       $7  good used, Vespa moped, arm has 11mm arch  
P22                  loop pinch bolt 6 pieces 6mm 10 hex                       $7  good used, 1974-91 Tomos, arm has 10mm hole
P25 00000H60 Grimeca pinch bolt 9mm x w/7mm flat sides        $4  for most Italian brake cable wheel ends
P26a                clevis pinch bolt                                                      $6   for Sachs, AMF & KTM clevis style brake arms
P26b                clevis pinch bolt                                                      $6   for Sachs. AMF & KTM clevis style brake arms
P26c                clevis adapter                                                         $4   for Sachs, AMF & KTM clevis style brake arms   
P27a                bicycle pinch bolt, 8mm w/6mm flat sides               $2  too small for Grimeca brake arms
P27b                cable wire end cap crimp on                                     $1  protects exposed braided cables 
P27c                bicycle brake step ferrule                                    50¢ see ferrule F6
 
 
 
 

Pinch Bolts

Many of the 8mm diameter pinch bolts (item P3c above) sold on the internet will slip if the bolt is not tightened with a pliers holding onto the round 8mm barrel. This is because the 5mm bolt does not have a dome shaped end. Myrons cuts a rounded dome in the 5mm pinch bolt. This makes it gently fold the wire into a curve when the bolt is tightened.

Domed pinch bolts hold better

Domed pinch bolts hold better and don’t cut.

Domed and regular 5mm pinch bolts with 8mm barrels

Domed and regular 5mm pinch bolts with 8mm barrels. At top, the tool that holds them for cutting and a M5x0.8 die.

You pay more for a Myrons pinch bolt, but you will get a much greater benefit. Safety (it won’t pop off when you slam on the brakes), and ease of installation (don’t normally need a pliers to hold the round barrel). You can feel the cable bending as the bolt is tightened. That gentle bending is what makes it not slip. See pictures at left. 

The 5.5mm diameter pinch bolts (item P1 above) for throttles already have domes on their 3mm bolts. (cones actually). So they are designed to hold good, yet be small. Nonetheless, they often need to be soldered, in addition to the pinch bolt tightened as much as possible, in order to not slip.  

 

 

 

2. E: Ends and Elbows   

E1 a, b, c, d, e, f, g, h ,i. j cable end adapters

E1 a, b, c, d, e, f, g, h ,i  cable end adapters

E1h adapter

E1h brake end adapter
Ø6 pear to Ø8 barrel

E2 a,b rod ends

E2 rod ends

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

E1a 25880  cable end D=8.7 L=8.2 brake adapter           $2  adapts a brake end to a 9mm barrel end
E1b Sachs   cable end D=4/6 L=13.0 Sachs adapter        $8  adapts a carb end to 4/6 barrel end
E1c Barnett throttle cable end adapter D=5.0 L=8.0        $3  adapts a carb end to a 5mm barrel end
E1d 25362  throttle cable end adapter D=6.0 L=7.0        $1  adapts a carb end to a 6mm barrel end
E1f             brake cable end adapter D=7.0 L=9.8          $3  adapts a brake end to a 7mm barrel end
E1g             brake cable end adapter D=8 L=10 slotted    $3  adapts a brake end to a 8mm barrel end
E1h             brake cable end adapter D=8.0 L=10.2         $1  adapts a brake end to a 8mm barrel end
E1i              brake cable end adapter D=8.0 L=14.4         $4  adapts a brake end to a 8mm barrel end
E2a             threaded rod nut M6                                    $1  many Asian brakes are “rod” type
E2b             threaded rod barrel                                      $4  a threaded rod is the end of the wire
E3 elbow

E3 elbow

E4 inline oiler

E4 inline oiler

E4 a,b,c,d,e bicycle ends

Note that the bicycle gear wire “inline barrel” end is 4mm, too big to be a motorcycle throttle wire “inline barrel” 3mm, also known as “carb” end.

Note that the bicycle brake cable “barrel” 7mm end is too big for a motorcycle throttle end “barrel” 4 to 6mm.

 
 
 
E3               M6x0.8 elbow 45 deg, no adjuster threads   $6  Dellorto and others
E3x             other elbows available, not listed         $10-$12  most
E4               in line oiler with attached cap                       $2   for putting oil into the cable
E4a            bicycle cable end  “brake wire Campy” =”pear” type   D=3.9/6.0 L=8.0  use E5s  comes with wire 1.6mm
E4b            bicycle cable end    “brake wire road”   =”pear” type   D=3.9/6.0 L=9.0  use E5s  comes with wire 1.6mm
E4c            bicycle cable end   “brake wire MTB”    =”barrel” type     D=7.0   L=7.0         N/A  comes with wire 1.6mm
E4d            bicycle cable end “gear wire Shimano” =”inline barrel”   D=4.0   L=4.0         N/A  comes with wire 1.2mm
E4e            bicycle cable end “gear wire Campy”   =”inline barrel”    D=4.0   L=3.0         N/A  comes with wire 1.2mm
E4f             bicycle cable end “gear wire old Huret”=”short barrel”   D=5.0   L=3.0  use E5b  comes with wire 1.2mm

These bicycle cable ends are listed here to show how much different they are from motorcycle cable ends. A bicycle gear cable 4mm end could be ground down to become a motorcycle throttle cable 3mm end. A bicycle brake cable road type interchanges with a motorcycle pear or mushroom type. A bicycle brake MTB type 7mm end fits loosely into a 8 or 9mm motorcycle brake lever, but functions OK. 

E5 a,b,c,d,e,f,g,h,i,j,k,l,m,n,o,p,q,r,s Cable Ends for Soldering

E5 a,b,c,d,e,f,g,h,i,j,k,l,m,n,o,p,q,r,s  Cable Ends for Soldering

Cable end wires bent into an umbrella before soldering

Cable wires bent into an umbrella before soldering

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
E5a                   cable end “short barrel” D=6.0 L=3.0 wire=1.7          $0.50  for soldering to 1.6mm braided cable 
E5b                   cable end “short barrel” D=5.5 L=3.2 wire=1.7          $0.50 for soldering to 1.6mm braided cable 
E5b 620-25162 cable end “short barrel” D=6.3 L=3.3 wire=1.6          $0.50 for soldering to 1.6mm braided cable
E5c 620-24187 cable end “ball” shape   D-4.6   wire=1.7                    N/A  for soldering to 1.6mm braided cable
E5d 620-24162 cable end “ball” shape   D-5.4   wire=1.7                   $0.50  for soldering to 1.6mm braided cable
E5e 620-24062 cable end “ball” shape   D-6.3   wire=1.7                   $1.00  for soldering to 1.6mm braided cable
E5f  620-25063 cable end “barrel” type D=3.9 L=7.2 wire=1.6           $1.00  for soldering to 1.6mm braided cable
E5g                   cable end “barrel” type D=4.9 L=7.4 wire=1.8             N/A  for soldering to 1.6mm braided cable 
E5h                   cable end “barrel” type D=4.6 L=10.2 wire=1.4           N/A  for soldering to 1.6mm braided cable 
E5i  620-25349 cable end “barrel” type D=6.0 L=7.0 wire=1.2           $1.00  for soldering to 1.2mm braided cable
E5j  620-25580 cable end “barrel” type D=9.5 L=9.5 wire=2.0           $1.00  for soldering to 2.0mm braided cable
E5k 620-24755 cable end “inline barrel” D=3.2 L=4.8 wire=1.8          $1.00  “inline barrel” also known as “carb” type
E5l  620-24762 cable end “inline barrel” D=3.2 L=4.0 wire=1.7          $0.50  “inline barrel” also known as “carb” type
E5m                  cable end “pear” type 3.2/5.6 L=8.0 wire=2.0           $0.50  for soldering to 2.0mm braided cable
E5n                   cable end “pear” type 3.8/6.0 L=6.6 wire=2.7           $0.50  for soldering to 2.7mm braided cable
E5p                    cable end “pear” type 4.0/6.3 L=10.1 wire=2.0          $0.50  for soldering to 2.0mm braided cable
E5q 620-26298 cable end “pear” type 3.9/6.3 L=11.5 wire=2.3         $0.50  for soldering to 2.0mm braided cable
E5s 620-26162 cable end “pear” type 3.9/5.6 L=8.1  wire=1.6          $0.50  for soldering to 1.6mm braided cable
 
 

3. A: Adjusters

A1 a,b,c M5 adjuster

A1 a,b,c,d
M5 adjuster

A2 M6 adjuster

A2   hex
M6 adjuster

A3 M6 adjuster

A3 a,b
M6 adjust.

A4 long M6 adjuster

A4   long
M6 adjuster

A5 M7 adjuster

A5 a,b
M7 adjuster

A6 M8 adjuster

A6
M8 adjuster

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A7 adjuster nuts

A7 a,b,c,d
adjust. nuts

A8 inline adjuster

A8 inline
adjuster

A8 Magura adjuster

A9 a,b,c
Magura adjust.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
A1a 219625 cable adjuster M5 x 0.75  (no nut)             $6  fine, for Dellorto carb elbow
       219626 cable adjuster nut only M5 x 0.75              $3   fine, for Dellorto carb elbow
A1b              cable adjuster M5 x 0.80 with nut            $4   standard, for Puch Bing
A1c  23089  cable adjuster M5 x 0.90 with nut              $8   coarse, for Motobecane
A1d              cable adjuster M5 x 1.00 with nut            $2   very coarse, not for any common moped
A2                cable adjuster M6x1.00 hex no slot          $1
A3a              cable adjuster M6x1.00 round no slot        $2-$3  good used, original Motobecane
A3b 222592 cable adjuster M6x1.00 round slotted          $5  original 1990’s Tomos dark grey
A4                cable adjuster M6x1.00 hex long used     $3-$5  Puch wheels and others
A5a              cable adjuster M7x1.00 round slotted        $5
A5b              cable adjuster M7x1.00 hex used              $4
A6                cable adjuster M8x1.25 round slotted        $5
A7a              thin nut for adjuster M5 x 0.8                   $1 
A7b              thin nut for adjuster  M6 x 1.0                  $1
A7d              thin nut for adjuster  M6 x 0.75                $2
A8                in-line cable adjuster                               $5  for joining two 5 or 6mm sleeves
A9a              Magura type adjuster short, good used      $6
A9b              Magura type adjuster long, good used        $6
A9c              Magura type adjuster short w/elbow          $7  for Kreidler and others                          
A10              
A11              cable adjuster 1/4 – 24 aluminum             $4
A12              cable adjuster M7 x 1.0 short w/nut         $10  for Motobecane decomp
A13              cable adjuster M6 x 0.75  fine                   $4  for Dellorto, Bing, Gurtner, and Asian carbs

 


4. F: Ferrules

F1 F2 F3 Step Ferrules

F1 F2 F3 step ferrules

F3 step ferrule avail. in bulk

F3 step ferrules in bulk

F4 a,b,c F5 a,b Step Ferrules

F4 a,b,c   F1   F5 a,b   step ferrules

 

 

 

 

 

 

F6 bicycle stop

F6 bicycle cable stop

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

F1  15581       step ferrule 5.9-8.0 by 13mm ID=5.8                    $2-$3  for Motobecane rear brake
F1                    step ferrule 5.9-8.0 by 10mm ID=5.4                    $2-$3  for Peugeot front brake
F1                    step ferrule 6.0-9.0 by 14mm ID=6.5 aluminum         $2
F1                    A2   cable adjuster M6x1 hex  ID=6.5                          $1  good substitute for F1
F2  16944        step ferrule 4.0-7.0 by 11mm ID=5.5                         $2   for Motobecane decomp 
F3                     step ferrule 4.0-7.0 by 10mm ID=5.5 steel             $0.50  sub for F2, Peugeot R brk & decomp
F3                                                                 in bulk:                      $2/10      $10/100  
F3                     step ferrule 4.0-7.0 by 10mm ID=5.5 aluminum   $0.50  sub for F2, Peugeot R brk & decomp
F4a                   step ferrule 4.0-7.0 by 12mm ID=6.0 aluminum         $1
F4a                   step ferrule 4.0-7.0 by 10mm ID=5.7 chrome             $2
F4b                   step ferrule 4.5-7.7 by 16.7    ID=5.8 Barnett             $2 
F4c 620-21710 step ferrule 5.3-6.8 by 19.0    ID=6.2 Barnett             $2
F5a                   step ferrule 5.9-11.9 by 15.4  ID=10.4                       $2
F5b                   step ferrule miscellaneous                                 $2 most
F6                     step ferrule bicycle brake universal                   $0.50

The above step ferrules all fit loosely over the cable conduit. The end cap type ferrules below fit tight on the conduit, or are crimped on by special pliers. The end caps are supposed to fit tight, for several reasons: For strength and cable performance, to help keep out dirt and water (thus increasing lifetime), and for easier servicing. Unlike the step ferrules, which are necessary, the end cap ferrules are not necessary. Sometimes conduits need to be cut and the end cap ferrule needs to be left off. The conduit will still function good without end caps, as long as the adjuster or other stop piece hole, usually 2.5mm, is not too big. Without a 6mm OD end cap ferrule, a 5mm conduit will eventually slip through an improper stop piece hole, like 4mm instead of 2.5mm. But as long as the holes in the end pieces are the proper size, the cable does not need end cap ferrules.   

F6 a,b,c,d,e,f,g,h,i,j,k,m,n,o Ferrules (End Caps)

F6 a,b,c,d,e,f,g,h,i,j,k,m,n,o Ferrules (Cable End Caps)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

F6a                    ferrule ID=4.5mm with flare                   $1.00  easy to install, just press on
F6b                    ferrule ID=4.8mm no flare                      $0.50  make flare with punch, then press on
F6b                    ferrule ID=5.1mm no flare, Barnett         $0.50  make flare with punch, then press on
F6c                    ferrule ID=4.8mm no flare, Barnett         $0.50  make flare with punch, then press on
F6d                    ferrule ID=4.0mm no flare Shimano SIS  $0.50  used and pre-crimped 
F6e                    ferrule ID=4.5mm no flare, Sachs           $0.50  make flare with punch, then press on
F6f  620-20100 ferrule ID=5.0mm no flare, aluminum     $0.50  make flare with punch, then press on
F6g                    ferrule ID=5.0mm with flare, chrome      $1.00  easy to install, just press on
F6h                    ferrule ID=5.1mm with flare, used          $1.00  original on Peugeot and MB
F6i                     ferrule ID=5.0mm with flare, Puch          $1.00  easy to install, just press on
F6j                     ferrule ID=5.5mm with flare                   $1.00  easy to install, just press on
F6k                    ferrule ID=6.0mm no flare, Barnett        $0.50  make flare with punch, then press on
F6m 620-20110 ferrule ID=5.5mm no flare, aluminum    $0.50  make flare with punch, then press on
F6n                    ferrule ID=6.1mm with flare, chrome       N/A  easy to install, just press on
F6o                    ferrule ID=7.1mm with flare, chrome      $1.00  bigger than most moped conduits
 

5. B: Bulk wire, conduit, and sleeve

top B5 7 x 7 braid, flexible bot. B3 1 x 19 braid, stiff

top B5 7×7 braid, flexible
bot. B3 1×9 braid, stiff

B13 conduit with liner

B8, B10, B12, B13
conduit with nylon liner

B18 silver conduit

B18  silver 5mm conduit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sometimes very long cables are needed, for long bikes, or very tall handlebars, or for other things that use mechanical control cables. For 1.2mm and 1.6mm thick inner wires, up to 8 feet, it is better to use bicycle wires. beacuse they already have end(s) and cost less. The same quality 5mm conduit (housing) for bicycles costs much less than for motorcycles, and comes in colors. For thicker or longer cables, the bulk motorcycle wire and black conduit is the only choice.

                 Cable inner wire from Motorcycle Parts Suppliers (Flanders):
B1   610-03080 cable wire by the foot  1.2mm 1 x 9 strand                             $0.80/ft  stiff braid (throttle)
                          cable wire   8.5 feet    1.2mm 1 x 9 strand stainless               use W10    
B2   610-03090 cable wire by the foot  1.2mm 7 x 7 strand                                   N/A    soft braid (throttle)
B3   610-03100 cable wire by the foot  1.6mm 1 x 9 strand                                   N/A    stiff braid (brake)
B4   610-03110 cable wire by the foot  1.6mm 7 x 7 strand                             $1.00/ft   soft braid (brake)
                          cable wire   9.0 feet    1.5mm 1 x 9 strand stainless               use W11  
B6   610-03120 cable wire by the foot  2.1mm 1 x 9 strand                             $1.30/ft  stiff braid (brake)
                 Conduit (housing) from Motorcycle Parts Suppliers (Flanders):
B7   610-03300 cable conduit per foot 5.0 x 2.3 black          for 1.2 or 1.6 wire   N/A use B13
B8   610-03305 cable conduit per foot 4.8 x 2.1 black,  nylon-lined, for 1.2 wire  N/A use B13 
B9   610-03310 cable conduit per foot 5.5 x 2.9 black             for 2.0 wire            N/A
B10 610-03315 cable conduit per foot 5.5 x 2.5 black,  nylon-lined, for 1.6 wire  N/A
B11 610-03320 cable conduit per foot 6.0 x 3.3 black             for 2.5 wire            $3.50/ft
B12 610-03325 cable conduit per foot 6.0 x 2.9 black,  nylon-lined,  for 2.0 wire   N/A
                 Conduit (housing) from Bicycle Parts Suppliers (J & B Importers)
B13   1460        cable conduit per foot  4.9 x 2.0 black,  nylon-lined, for 1.6 wire   $0.50/ft
B14   1461        cable conduit per foot  4.9 x 2.0 white,  nylon-lined, for 1.6 wire   $0.50/ft
B15                   cable conduit per foot  5.7 x 2.0 brown, nylon-lined, for 1.6 wire $0.50/ft  AMF style, from 1980’s
B16   14427      cable conduit per foot  4.8 x 2.0 yellow,                for 1.6 wire    $0.50/ft
B17  14426      cable conduit per foot  4.8 x 2.0 blue,                   for 1.6 wire     $0.50/ft
B18   14339      cable conduit per foot  5.0 x 1.9 silver, nylon-lined, for 1.6 wire  $0.80/ft
                 Outer Sleeving from Industrial Suppliers
B20  1508T32  big outer sleeve 11 x 13mm black PVC, holds 3 -5mm cables    $1.00/ft   new and flexible, at last!
 
 

 

Ready to jump!

Ready to jump!

1942 BSA Airborne Bicycle

1942 BSA Airborne bike

6. Cloth Cable Restoration

Since World War II, most cable conduit is coated with soft nylon or vinyl type plastic, to be flexible and waterproof. But before the 1950’s, most cable was coated in woven cotton cloth. The same is true with electrical wires. Early 1900’s electrical wires had cloth insulation, while late 1900’s wires had soft plastic.

Modern plastic coated cables will replace the older woven types, but they do not have the old fashioned appearance. None of the normal cable suppliers, bicycle or motorcycle, sell cloth coated cables.

One historic old bicycle with cloth covered cables was the 1939-1945 BSA Airborne Bicycle. In WWII British commandos would jump out of planes with these bicycles and then quietly ride miles undetected to the destination. 

cable housings 4

A shoelace can cover a cable

In 2014 a bike mechanic in Canada was restoring a BSA Airborne Bicycle. He ordered cable parts from Myrons Mopeds. That inspired Shaun to find a way to make cloth cables. A few days later, walking down the sidewalk, Shaun saw a purple Lakers shoelace laying on the sidewalk. It was big enough to see that it was actually a hollow tube. At that moment Shaun realized that most shoelaces are hollow tubes, in different sizes, colors, and lengths. A hollow cloth tube made from a shoelace could cover a modern cable to make it look “vintage”.

In 2015 an medical engineer in Alabama was restoring a different BSA Airborne Bicycle. He ordered cable parts from Myrons Mopeds. Shaun mentioned the idea of using shoelaces to reproduce vintage cloth cables. A few months later that person made this detailed report on how he successfully made accurate replica cloth cables out of modern plastic ones.

cable housings 1

Middle is original, others are restored

cable housings 2

Middle is old original, others are new replicas

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The attached pictures are the original housing (in the middle) with the new ones.  The finish came out really really well.  It’s hard to really see in the pictures but it is almost exact reproduction.  It took a lot of work and a lot of patience but here’s how I did it.
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1) I bought flak jacket brake cable housing.  This has a steel inner core wrapped in kevlar, then a plastic outer covering.  I then cut away the plastic outer covering and the kevlar comes with it.  You need to use this type housing because the steel inner core is a smaller diameter than a normal brake cable housing and that is necessary to offset for the extra thickness of the shoelace so you can get on the brass housing ferrules later.  
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2) face and chamfer the steel housing on a sander.
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3) I inserted some straight pins with a little silicone sealant on the pin head into the ends of the steel inner cores.  This is to seal the inside of the steel inner core from the plastidip later.  Let the silicone dry so the pins don’t accidentally come out later.  Just use a little sealant.  All you need to do is seal the pin head to the housing but if you use too much you’ll end up with sealant inside the housing and it’ll be hard to remove the pins later.
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4) I got some black tubular shoe laces.  Turns out not all shoe laces are created equal and if it does specifically say tubular, then it is not a tube of cloth when you cut it open.  I used 1/2″ tubular shoe laces and that worked better than some smaller diameter ones I found.  After you cut the laces, spread apart the tube and burn the ends so they don’t unravel later.
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5) Confirm that you have everything setup and ready to go for the next several steps because once you start you will be on a time clock.  You’ll have about 10 minutes of working time and a lot to do in that time (step 6 – 11).  Do a dry run first to make sure you know where everything is and work out any kinks in your process.
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6) get a can of black plastidip from lowes (you will also need a spray can of black plastidip and a spray can of the glossifier later) pour a portion of the black plastidip into a small disposable pan.  While wearing gloves soak the shoe laces in the plastidip and kneed and squeeze the plastidip into the cloth.
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7) coat the steel inner cable with plastidip
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8) insert the steel inner cable into the plastidip soaked shoe lace
cable housings 3

How to stretch, tighten, and bond the cloth.

9)  secure one end of the shoe lace to a hook and the other end to a ratchet strap (see picture)

10) tighten the ratchet strap to tension the shoe lace onto the cable.  As you stretch the shoe lace, it will tighten on the steel inner cable and squeeze out excess plastidip
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11) squeegee off excess plastidip.  I used a latex glove wrapped around once.  Once it looks reasonable, STOP.
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12) take some thread and use a criss cross pattern on the last 5 – 8 mm of the housing on either side.  This will secure and compress the shoelace to the housing so a ferrule can fit over it later.
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13) allow that to cure to 4 hours.
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14) mask off the 5 – 8 mm area that your tied off at either end
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15) using the black plastidip spray, starting applying layers of plastidip every 45 minutes.  I did 4 coats.  The more coats you add, the less you’ll see the shoe lace but the thicker it’ll get.  Let that cure at least 4 hours
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16) spray two coats of the glossifier to provide some UV protection and the original housings had a glossy sheen to them.
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17) let all of that cure to 8+ hours.  The plastidip is so thick at this point, it will take a while.  If you pull it off too early, the inside will still be guey and the shoelace will separate from the steel inner core.
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18) cut off the excess, pull out the pins, carefully trim the edge of the shoelace housing about 1mm back from the steel inner core.
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19) run a spare brake cable through the house to clear out any excess sealer or plastidip.  If a brake cable won’t fit, use a shifter cable first.
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20) Build your brake housing assembles by first putting the ferrules on one end of the cable, threading the cable through (with oil) into the housing.  The excess oil that is now on the housing can be used to help install the ferrule.  
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21) press on the first ferrule.  
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22) thread the second ferrule on and then press it on the other side using a little oil.  The plastidip is pretty tacky and if the ferrule grabs it the wrong way, it will seperate the shoe lace from the housing and you will have to do everything all over again.  Do everything you can to ensure the ferrules will slip over the finished housing.
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Done.  Thanks for the idea, it worked, but required A LOT of trial and error to get this process down and then several days to actually make them.  You are welcome to pass on this information to anyone that it could benefit.