Left and Right can be Reversed
Left and Right: Never assume that the left crank or pedal is a left type, or the right crank or pedal is a right type. They can be reversed, and they often are! Always look for markings that say right or left. Look at or test the threads to see if they are right-hand or left-hand threads.
Righty Tighty: With the outer end of the pedal facing you, a right pedal tightens clockwise and a left tightens anti-clockwise.
Markings: Most modern pedals and reproduction pedal cranks are stamped L or R. Most vintage European right cranks are stamped D (droit, destra, desno, derecho) or R (recht, right). Some vintage European left cranks are not marked, and some are stamped S (sinistra) or G (gauche) or L (levo, left).
Offset: Ideally the pedal arms should have enough offset to not hit anything, even after being bent inward a little, yet not have too much offset. Too much offset causes the pedals to hit the ground sooner when leaned over, and to stick out more when parking or storing, and to hit the riders feet more when backing up.
Length: Longer pedal arms provide more leverage. For mopeds the pedals are mainly used for starting the engine, rather than pedaling. So if the engine turns over easily then long pedal arms are not needed. Longer arms hit the ground sooner when leaned over. And when not pedaling, one foot is more forward and the other is more back. So shorter arms are better, in many ways. But for pedaling, longer arms are better, especially for riders with long legs.
Style: Some engines or bikes need cranks that “go outward right away” because something is sticking out near the pedal shaft. This is the style #3 or #0 on Sachs 505, Morini MO1, MO2 and Garelli Gulp, VIP engines and certain bikes that have covers or body panels near the pedals.
Pedal Crank Arms for Sale
All of these have a 16mm pedal shaft hole.
Green price is new, dark green price is used
| style | length | offset | pin | can | 4¾” reach | ||||
| part# | # | (inch) | (inch) | (mm) | thread | price | mark | use | |
| 431L | 2 | 5.7 | 1.5 | 9.0 | 9/16-right | none | S | 433L | Minarelli V1 |
| 431R | 2 | 5.7 | 1.5 | 9.0 | 9/16-left | none | D | 433R | Minarelli V1 |
| 432L | 2 | 5.7 | 1.7 | 9.0 | 9/16-left | $25 | S | . | Min. V1 high offset |
| 433L | 3 | 5.7 | 1.0 | note | 9/16-left | $28.0 | L | 433L | Minarelli repro |
| 433R | 3 | 5.7 | 1.0 | note | 9/16-right | $20.0 | R | 433R | Minarelli repro |
| 435L | 3 | 5.7 | 1.2 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | none | S | 502L | Morini MO1, MO2 |
| 435R | 3 | 5.7 | 1.2 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | none | D | 502R | Morini MO1, MO2 |
| 433 | 2 | set | set | note | 9/16 set | $40.0 | set | 433 | Minarelli repro |
Note: The 433 pedal arms have a 9.5 mm pin hole, but they require a 9.0 mm pin. They also require grinding of the shaft hole 1 mm bigger. On these the grinding has been performed and is included in the price.
1. 435L, 435R originals on Morini MO1, MO2. These cranks are the type that “goes outward right away”, because the engine sticks out close to the pedal shaft.
| style | length | offset | pin | can | 5” reach | ||||
| part# | # | (inch) | (inch) | (mm) | thread | price | mark | use | |
| 501R | 2 | 6.0 | 1.2 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | $16 | R | 502R | Batavus M48 |
| 501L | 2 | 6.0 | 1.2 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | $29 | L | 502L | Batavus M48 |
| 502R | 3 | 6.0 | 1.2 | note | 9/16-right | none | R | 502R | Sachs repro |
| 502L | 3 | 6.0 | 1.5 | note | 9/16-left | $20.0 | L | 502L | Sachs repro |
| 503R | 5 | 6.0 | 0.7 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | none | R | 502R | Cimatti (Minarelli) |
| 503L | 5 | 6.0 | 0.7 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | $20 | L | 502L | Cimatti (Minarelli) |
| 504R | 7 | 5.8 | none | 9.5 | 9/16-right | $25.0 | R | 513R | Trac M56 |
| 504L | 7 | 5.8 | none | 9.5 | 9/16-left | $25.0 | L | 513L | Trac M56 |
| 505R | 7 | 5.8 | none | 9.5 | 9/16-right | none | R | 513R | Batavus M56 |
| 505L | 7 | 5.8 | none | 9.5 | 9/16-left | $17 | L | 513L | Batavus M56 |
| 506R | 6 | 5.9 | 0.8 | 9.0 | 9/16-right | $29 | D | 519R | Vespa Ciao |
| 506L | 6 | 5.9 | 0.8 | 9.0 | 9/16-left | $19 | S | 519L | Vespa Ciao |
| 507R | 5.9 | 1.2? | 9.0 | M14-right | none | D | 507R | Peugeot repro | |
| 507L | 5.9 | 1.2? | 9.0 | M14-left | none | G | 507L | Peugeot repro | |
| 502 | 3 | set | set | note | 9/16 set | $36.0 | set | 502 | Sachs repro |
Note: 502 pedal arms have 9.5 mm pin holes, but the holes are 1 mm closer to the pedal shaft. So they need 9.0 pins ground 1 mm thinner on the flat side. Price $7 each.
1. 503R on ’76-78 Cimatti
2. 502L, 502R compared with 603L, 603R
3. 502 set on Garelli Gulp
4. Garelli Gulp requires #3 style arms that go outward early with a high offset.
| style | length | offset | pin | can | 5¼” reach | ||||
| part# | # | (inch) | (inch) | (mm) | thread | price | mark | use | |
| 510R | 6 | 6.1 | 0.7 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | none | R | 513R | Honda PA50 |
| 510L | 6 | 6.1 | 0.7 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | none | L | 513L | Honda PA50 |
| 511R | 2 | 6.2 | 1.2 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | none | R | 502R | Sparta |
| 511L | 2 | 6.2 | 1.2 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | $25 | L | 502L | Sparta |
| 512R | 3 | 6.2 | 1.2 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | $26 | R | 502R | Sachs 505 |
| 512L | 3 | 6.2 | 1.2 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | none | L | 502L | Sachs 505 |
| 513R | 4 | 6.2 | 0.7 | note | 9/16-right | $23 | R | 513R | Tomos repro |
| 513L | 4 | 6.2 | 0.7 | note | 9/16-left | $23 | L | 513L | Tomos repro |
| 514R | 4 | 6.2 | 0.7 | note | 9/16-right | $21 | R | 514R | Tomos repro black |
| 514L | 4 | 6.2 | 0.7 | note | 9/16-left | $21 | L | 514L | Tomos repro black |
| 515R | 5 | 6.0 | 1.0 | 9.0 | M14-right | none | D | 507R | Peugeot 102 |
| 515L | 5 | 6.0 | 1.2 | 9.0 | M14-left | $20 | G | 507L | Peugeot 102 |
| 516R | 6 | 6.4 | 0.8 | 9.0 | 9/16-right | $23 | D | 519R | Vespa Grande, Si |
| 516L | 6 | 6.4 | 0.7 | 9.0 | 9/16-left | none | none | 519L | Vespa Grande, Si |
| 517R | 6 | 6.0 | 0.5 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | $25 | D | 513R | ’74-86 Tomos |
| 517L | 6 | 6.0 | 0.5 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | $25 | L | 513L | ’74-86 Tomos |
| 518R | 7 | 6.0 | none | 9.5 | 9/16-right | $19 | P | . | ’70-95 Jawa |
| 518L | 7 | 6.0 | none | 9.5 | 9/16-left | $19 | L | . | ’70-95 Jawa |
| 519R | 2 | 6.1 | 1.2? | 9.5 | 9/16-right | $23 | D | 519R | Vespa repro |
| 519L | 2 | 6.1 | 1.2? | 9.5 | 9/16-left | none | S | 519L | Vespa repro |
| 513 | 4 | set | set | note | 9/16 set | $40.0 | set | 513 | Tomos repro |
| 514 | 4 | set | set | note | 9/16 set | $37.0 | set | 514 | Tomos repro black |
| 519 | 2 | set | set | 9.5 | 9/16 set | none | set | 519 | Vespa repro |
Note: 513 and 514 pedal arms have 9.5 mm pin holes but require 9.0 mm wedge pins.
1. 512L, 512R for Sachs 505 engine, on Hercules. Here are the #3 style vintage German original pedal cranks on Hercules mopeds with Sachs 505 engine, such as the US-model “Sachs Balboa”. On a Taiwan moped with a Sachs 505 engine, such as “General 5-Star ST”, the pedal cranks are Taiwan made compatibles, that look different but have about the same dimensions and same style. These “go outward right away”, not to clear the engine, but to clear the covers above the engine, when the crank is vertical.
2. 514L, 514R for ’86-17 Tomos, on ’09 Tomos. Here are the #4 style original pedal cranks on 1986 and later Tomos mopeds, from late A3 to A35 and A55 engine models. The 2009 Tomos A55 engine pedal shaft is much longer than it needs to be, by 3/4″ on the left, and 1 3/4″ on the right, as you can see.
3. 517L, 517R for ’74-85 Tomos A3. The early 1974-79 early A3 pedal cranks did not have or need much offset.
4. 518R, 518L for ’70-95 Jawa
| style | length | offset | pin | can | 5½” reach | ||||
| part# | # | (inch) | (inch) | (mm) | thread | price | mark | use | |
| 521R | 4 | 6.5 | 1.0 | 9.0 | M14-right | 22-15 | D 40 | 507R | Motobecane |
| 521L | 4 | 6.5 | 1.0 | 9.0 | M14-left | $45.0 | G 40 | 507L | Motobecane |
| 523L | 4 | 6.5 | 1.2 | 9.0 | M14-left | $50 | G 40 | 507L | Motobecane extra offset |
| 524L | 7 | 6.5 | none | 9.5 | 9/16-left | $17 | L | . | vintage European |
1. 521L, 521R Motobecane, 2. 521L bent inward. Shown here are the #4 style vintage French original pedal cranks on Motobecane Mobylette mopeds 1972-1980+. On variator models, like 50V, the engine swings back as the bike speeds up. The clutch wheel often scrapes against the left pedal crank. On non-variator (Dimoby) models, like 50 or 40, the engine does not swing back as the bike speeds up (but it does swing to keep the belt tight). On those models there is also 3/8 inch more space between the clutch wheel and the pedal crank. So they don’t ever hit and scrape the clutch wheel.
| style | length | offset | pin | can | 5¾” reach | ||||
| part# | # | (inch) | (inch) | (mm) | thread | price | mark | use | |
| 531R | 2 | 6.7 | 1.2 | 9.0 | M14-right | $19 | VP D | 531R | Peugeot 103 |
| 531R | 2 | 6.7 | 1.2 | 9.0 | M14-right | $14 | VP D | 531R | Peugeot 103 |
| 531L | 5 | 6.7 | 1.2 | 9.0 | M14-left | $24 | none | 535L | Peugeot 103 |
| 532R | 2 | 6.7 | 1.2 | 9.0 | 9/16-right | none | VP D | 614R | 531R rethreaded |
| 532L | 5 | 6.7 | 1.2 | 9.0 | 9/16-left | none | none | 614L | 531L rethreaded |
| 533R | 4 | 6.7 | 1.5 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | none | R | none | Solo with sprocket |
| 533L | 4 | 6.7 | 1.5 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | none | none | 513L | Solo |
| 535R | 5 | 6.7 | 1.5 | 9.0 | M14-right | none | D | 535R | 60’s French repro |
| 535L | 5 | 6.7 | 1.5 | 9.0 | M14-left | none | G | 535L | 60’s French repro |
| 536R | 6 | 6.7 | 0.7 | 9.0 | 9/16-right | $24.0 | D | 513R | early Garelli w/groove |
| 536L | 6 | 6.5 | 1.5 | 9.0 | 9/16-left | none | none | 513L | early Garelli w/groove |
| 537R | 3 | 6.5 | 1.5 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | none | D | 614R | Garelli VIP |
| 537L | 3 | 6.5 | 1.5 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | none | none | 614L | Garelli VIP |
| 538R | 6 | 6.5 | 0.8 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | none | R | 513R | Kreidler MP9 |
| 538L | 6 | 6.5 | 0.8 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | $18 | L | 513L | Kreidler MP9 |
| 539R | 3 | 6.7 | 1.2 | 9.0 | 9/16-right | $24 | D | 614R | Garelli Gulp |
| 539L | 3 | ? | ? | 9.0 | 9/16-right | none | none | 614L | Garelli Gulp |
1. 531R on ’76-83 Peugeot 103. Here is a 2-style vintage French right crank, on 1975-83 Peugeot 103 mopeds. The right arm has sharper bends than left, because the right cover is closer to the pedal arm. The left crank is a 5-style, with a more gentle bend.
2. 614 Puch replica cranks fit Garelli VIP.
| style | length | offset | pin | can | 6” reach | ||||
| part# | # | (inch) | (inch) | (mm) | thread | price | mark | use | |
| 601R | 3 | 7.0 | 1.2 | 9.0 | M14-right | $24 | D | 531R | Derbi Variant |
| 601L | 3 | 7.0 | 1.2 | 9.0 | M14-left | $20 | none | 531L | Derbi Variant |
| 602R | 3 | 7.0 | 1.7 | 9.0 | M14-right | none | D | none | Derbi Variant Sport |
| 602L | 3 | 7.0 | 1.7 | 9.0 | M14-left | none | none | none | Derbi Variant Sport |
| 603R | 6 | 6.7 | 0.7 | 9.0 | 9/16-right | $20 | D | 614R | Garelli |
| 603L | 3 | 6.7 | 1.2 | 9.0 | 9/16-left | none | none | 614L | Garelli |
| 604R | |||||||||
| 605R | 7 | 6.7 | none | 9.5 | 9/16-right | $20 | R | . | KTM Foxi |
| 605L | 7 | 6.7 | none | 9.5 | 9/16-left | $18 | L | . | KTM Foxi |
1. 601L, 601R Derbi Variant. Here are #3 style vintage Spanish crank arms for 1975-1986 Derbi Variant, and 531R Peugeot 103 substitute.
2. 603R ’78-83 Garelli VIP, 3. 603L ’78-83 Garelli VIP. Here are vintage Italian 6-style right and 3-style left crank arms for 1977-83 Garelli Gulp, VIP, and maybe Monza. The left has more offset than the right. It needs the 3 style that “goes outward right away” because the left side of the engine sticks out near the pedal shaft.
4. 606L, 606R Derbi Variant Sport. Here are higher offset 3-style Spanish arms for 1986-89 Derbi Variant Sport. Like Tomos and Garelli the later engines were wider.
| style | length | offset | pin | can | 6¼” reach | ||||
| part# | # | (inch) | (inch) | (mm) | thread | price | mark | use | |
| 611R | 0 | 7.5 | 1.5 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | R | 614R | Puch ZA50 | |
| 611L | 0 | 7.5 | 1.5 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | none | none | 614L | Puch ZA50 |
| 612R | 1 | 7.5 | 1.3 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | R | 614R | Puch Maxi E50 | |
| 612L | 1 | 7.5 | 1.3 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | none | 614L | Puch Maxi E50 | |
| 613R | 0 | 7.5 | 2.0 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | R | 613R | Puch replica raw | |
| 613L | 0 | 7.5 | 2.0 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | L | 613L | Puch replica raw | |
| 614R | 0 | 7.5 | 2.0 | 9.5 | 9/16-right | R | 614R | Puch replica | |
| 614L | 0 | 7.5 | 2.0 | 9.5 | 9/16-left | L | 614L | Puch replica | |
| 613 | 0 | 7.5 | set | 9.5 | 9/16-set | set | 613 | Puch replica raw | |
| 614 | 0 | 7.5 | set | 9.5 | 9/16-set | set | 614 | Puch replica | |
1. 611L, 611R 1978-86 Puch. Here are the 0-style vintage Austrian cranks on 1978-86 Puch Maxi and Magnum models. There are also 1-style Puch cranks, on 1968-78 Puch Maxi. Those are the same dimensions except the bend is more sharp.
2. 614 Puch replica cranks, 3. Puch threads are intentionally made weaker. What were they thinking? Pedal cranks for Puch mopeds have about 1/3 of the threads removed by machining. This makes them get stripped easier. The only plausible explanation is Puch was thinking about safety. When a rider forgets where the pedals are, and leans over in a turn, one pedal can hit the ground. If it hits hard enough it can cause a crash. Puch pedals are designed to break away, rather than causing a crash.
| style | length | offset | pin | can | 6½” reach | ||||
| part# | # | (inch) | (inch) | (mm) | thread | price | mark | use | |
| 621L | 7 | 7.2 | none | 9.5 | 9/16-left | $10 | L | 70’s 10-speed bicycle | |
Pedal Crank Service
1. Straightening a crank. The bend forms about 1-2″ inch below the tool. Here it is held high up.
2. VAR pedal arm bender. This has straightened 500 bent arms, saving customers $10,000.
3. Re-threading a crank.
Straightening:
1. With a special tool like the one shown, and two people, a bent pedal crank can be straightened in one minute without any removal. The second person has to pull on the bike the opposite way, by standing hard on the opposite pedal.
2. Without that tool, the pedal only is removed and a long pipe that fits closely over the crank is used to apply torque.
3. For more stubborn cranks, the crank is removed and placed in a large bench vise. Again the pipe is placed over the crank at the right place, and torque is applied. Moped cranks require 100 to maybe 600 foot-pounds of torque to bend. This is done without heating.
Re-threading: Often just the first few threads become messed up. Bicycle shops have pedal taps, size 9/16-20 Right and Left, that can repair partially-stripped threads on moped cranks. Hardware stores do not have those taps, instead they have 9/16-18, more coarse. So pedal taps are a bicycle-industry-only item.
Repairing pedal crank threads is done by starting the tap from the good side, which is the back. Sometimes crank removal is required, and sometimes it is optional. Cutting fluid, or at least oil, is applied. The tap is moved back and forth as it is screwed in (like 4 steps forward and 3 steps back), until it goes all the way through.
Rethreading a M14-1.25 crank to 9/16-20 (from 14.0 to 14.3mm) is more difficult. The plated steel is hard and tough. It takes longer and requires more force. The crank arm and tap get hot by the end of the 10-20 minute process.